Screening of ninety herbal products of commercial interest as potential ingredients for phytocosmetics

Abstract

Elastase and tyrosinase are important targets both for cosmetics and for dermatological disorders. In this work, ninety herbal products were tested as inhibitors of these two enzymes. Eleven extracts resulted strongly active. Four out of them (Camellia sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Rhodiola rosea, Vitis vinifera) inhibited both enzymes, five (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ribes nigrum, Rheum officinale, Salvia officinalis, Tilia platyphyllos) were active against tyrosinase only, and two (Ceterach officinarum and Cinnamomum zeylanicum) proved selectively active against elastase. The IC 50 ranged from 3.1 to 104.9 lg/mL and 19.3 to 164.3 lg/mL, against elastase and tyrosinase, respectively. The most active extracts resulted enriched in flavonoids (from 1.47 to 56.47 mg RE/g of extract) and phenolics (from 37.43 to 123.56 mg GAE/g of extract), indicating also an antioxidant potential. Finally, a positive correlation between enzymatic bioactivities and phenolic content was also established.

Plant Secondary Metabolites: An Opportunity for Circular Economy

“…For instance, flavonoids were proven active as anti-inflammatory [ 39 ], anticancer [ 40 , 41 ], antihypertensive [ 42 ], microcirculation improving [ 43 ], and hypolipidemic agents [ 44 ]. They proved also interesting as active ingredients in the cosmetic field [ 45 , 46 , 47 ] and as natural dyes [ 48 ].…”

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

“…In human beings, tyrosinase catalyzes both the hydroxylation of mono and the oxidation of diphenolase, both melanin precursors in its synthesis, and thus, they will protect the skin from the detrimental effects of UV radiation. Nevertheless, an excessive production is responsible for skin hyper-pigmentation, as in the case of melasma, freckles, ephelides and senile lentigines, which are important targets for skin-whitening agents [ 124 ]. Hyperpigmentation is an abnormal darkening of the skin mostly derived from excessive melanin production.…”

Review on oral plant extracts in Skin Whitening

“…Nowadays, many of these oral plant-based natural sources extracts are mostly from Asian origin. These compounds of oral functional plant selected as tyrosinase inhibitors by extraction (Kim et al, 2022;Smit et al, 2009) (Avianggi et al, 2022;Chaikul et al, 2021;Chaiyana et al, 2020;Chen et al, 2022;Khettal et al, 2017;Kim et al, 2022;Lianza et al, 2020;Omar et al, 2018;Setyawati et al, 2018;Truong et al, 2017;Wang et al, 2021a;Zeitoun et al, 2020). At present, oral plant extracts are more studied on plant extracts with good taste and good effective.…”