1996
DOI: 10.1016/0029-8018(95)00013-b
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Second-order wavemaker theory for irregular waves

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Cited by 230 publications
(212 citation statements)
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“…In shallow water conditions, it is well known that Stokes theory over predicts the magnitude of the second-order components. Schäffer (1996) introduced the nonlinearity parameter S; a value of S = 1 corresponding to the 'limiting' case where second-order Stokes theory predicts secondary peaks in the trough of the primary wave. As a result, for S > 1 the theory fails to predict the correct second-order content.…”
Section: Experimental Investigationmentioning
confidence: 99%
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“…In shallow water conditions, it is well known that Stokes theory over predicts the magnitude of the second-order components. Schäffer (1996) introduced the nonlinearity parameter S; a value of S = 1 corresponding to the 'limiting' case where second-order Stokes theory predicts secondary peaks in the trough of the primary wave. As a result, for S > 1 the theory fails to predict the correct second-order content.…”
Section: Experimental Investigationmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…As a result, for S > 1 the theory fails to predict the correct second-order content. With the force-feedback model outlined in part I utilizing the wave field solution derived by Schäffer (1996), the nonlinearity factor S will also be applied herein. For a regular wave with angular frequency ω = 2πf , wavenumber k and wave height H, the nonlinearity factor S is given by …”
Section: Experimental Investigationmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…This has been discussed extensively (Flick & Guza (1980), Sulisz & Hudspeth (1993), van Leeuwen & Klopman (1996), Schäffer (1996) and Zaman & Mak (2007)) and will not be repeated herein. Indeed, throughout this paper the notation and solution as presented by Schäffer (1996) will be adopted. With the wave field known, the wave-induced force acting on the paddle can be derived, representing part of the input to the paddle controller.…”
Section: Hydrodynamic Feedbackmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…In addition, Flick & Guza (1980) and Sulisz & Hudspeth (1993) addressed the effects of spurious superharmonic waves. In seeking an explanation of these effects, Schäffer (1996) derived a complete mathematical model for position-controlled wave makers including the sub-and superharmonic effects arising at second-order. With advances in laboratory wave generation techniques, wave makers are increasingly required to provide active absorption in order to avoid spurious reflection and reduce the flume or basin stilling time.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
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