Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

Abstract

Objective Sensitive skin is characterized by self‐reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel. Methods A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions ‘sensitive skin’, ‘reactive skin’ or ‘intolerant skin’ were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled. Results Eighty‐eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide‐1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide‐8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition. Conclusion This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Overview of popular cosmeceuticals in dermatology

“…Allantoin is often used to soothe dry, irritated skin due to its anti‐inflammatory, keratolytic and moisturising (i.e. emollient) properties 89 . In vivo studies have also demonstrated allantoin's potential in wound healing 89,90 .…”

Sustainable Setups for the Biocatalytic Production and Scale-Up of Panthenyl Monoacyl Esters under Solvent-Free Conditions

“…, promotes lipid synthesis, fibroblast proliferation, and wound healing, has anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic roles, fights against stress-induced radicals, etc. ), being highly convenient for sensitive skin health treatments. − …”

Antibacterial Aloe vera Based Biocompatible Hydrogel for Use in Dermatological Applications

“…Among its many skin care benefits can be mentioned the reduction of skin irritation, anti-inflammatory properties and wound healing properties [ 23 , 24 ]. Numerous clinical studies have shown that allantoin has both a moisturizing effect and a strong stimulation of cell proliferation and tissue regeneration [ 25 , 26 ]. The beneficial characteristics of this bioactive compound justify its utility and applications in numerous compositions formulated for the cosmetic industry, for the treatment of chronic wounds such as ulcers or for the healing of injuries, wounds and burns [ 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 ].…”