Shallow Water Waves a Comparison of Theories and Experiments

Mahaute, Bernard Le; Divoky, David; Lin, Albert Chin-Yuh

doi:10.9753/icce.v11.7

Cited by 32 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…(2) Corrected water depth at the trough (h c ): Laboratory experiments (Flick, Guza, and Inman, 1981) and higherorder, nonlinear, numerical wave models (Le Mehaute, Divoky, and Lin, 1968) show the wave-trough position to be below the SWL (Figure 9). Additionally, Lin, Philip, and Liu (1998) completed a numerical study of shallowwater breaking waves, using Cnoidal wave theory, and numerical analysis of their published breaking figures found the SWL breaking depth at h t þ 0.32 3 H b , which is extremely close to the h t þ 1/3 3 H b predicted by Shand, Bailey, and Shand (2012).…”

Section: Breaking-wave Water Depthmentioning

confidence: 99%

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Robertson

Hall

Nistor

et al. 2015

Journal of Coastal Research

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Robertson, B.; Hall, K.; Nistor, I.; Zytner, R., and Storlazzi, C., 2015. Remote sensing of irregular breaking wave parameters in field conditions. Journal of Coastal Research, 31(2), 348-363. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.The analysis of wave breaking in shallow water has been ongoing for almost 150 years. Numerous research papers have been published that approximate both the local conditions and geometric characteristics of breaking waves. However, much of this knowledge is based on laboratory results or limited field investigations because traditional methods of extracting breaking wave measurements from the surfzone are expensive, dangerous, and feature low-resolution data. Unfortunately, laboratory studies are prone to scaling and friction effects that introduce unwanted variability in the data. This study presents a novel, safe, and low-cost method of extracting relevant breaking-wave properties from irregular waves in the surfzone, using optical and in situ measurement systems. Published, contradictory breakingwater depth definitions are compared, and the water depth at the wave-trough depth, corrected for optical offsets using a still-water correction of one-third of the wave height, is found to exhibit the least variability. A new, effective seafloorslope definition, based on individual, breaking wavelength-to-depth ratios, was found to increase predictive ability over previously variable seafloor slope extraction methods. Collected field data are compared against established breakingwave height formulas with the general exponential form consistently finding the best correlation. Finally, an optimized breaking-wave height-prediction method finds a root mean square relative error of just 1.672% within the ranges of the measured data set. Irregular waves investigated on an individual wave basis are shown to follow regular wave-breaker height and depth prediction methods. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS:Breaker height, surf similarity number, breaker index, seafloor slope optimization, breaker depth.

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Section: Breaking-wave Water Depthmentioning

confidence: 99%

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Robertson

Hall

Nistor

et al. 2015

Journal of Coastal Research

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“…for the prediction of w and a. The validity of these theories have been discussed by Li: MÉHAUTÉ et al [12] and SCHUELLER [13] considering the fit of the theoretical expression for ;/ and a to actual measured data [12], [14], [15] as the selection criterion. Considerable deviations of the theories from the mean value functions of the scattered data have been found.…”

Section: Vvave Propagationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The computation is based on mean values of C D and C M , being 0.61 and 1.20 respectively. The spectral density of the force exerted on all four piles of the structure ma\ be calculated using Borgman's multiple-pile transfer function «ƒ M 1 -cos xgL 1 -cos xg (12) where N is the number of piles of the structure. M is the number of piles in each rank perpendicular and L parallel to the wave directions, g units (meter, ft) apart.…”

Section: Numerical Examplementioning

confidence: 99%

On the Reliability of the Spectral Method for the Design of Offshore Structures

Schuëller¹

1976

Journal of Hydraulic Research

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Two sources of uncertainties to be considered when computing spectral densities of wind-generated wave forces are discussed. The size of resolution and degree of confidence of spectral estimates as well as the filtering process are found to be important for the spectral shape particularly in the subrange significant for structural design of dynamically ex.. ited linear systems. The second type of uncertainty is introduced by the fact that the coefficients of drag and inertia are random variables. The effect of their dispersion on the variation of the force spectral estimate in terms of exceedance probabilities of the dynamic wave loads -using similarity wave height spectra -is discussed. The analysis is illustrated utilizing a template steel platform in 550 ft of water as a sample structure. Summary L'examen de deux sources d'inccrtitude a prendre en compte en calculant les densités spectrales des forces engendrées par la houle de vent met en evidence l'influence significative, a la fois de la dimension de resolution et du degré de confiance des evaluations spectrales, et du processus de filtrage, sur les profils des spectres, ce notamment dans la partie du domaine global qui est significative en ce qui concerne Ie calcul des structures des systèmes en régime d'excitation dynamique. L"incertitude du deuxième type inlervient du fait que les coefficients de trainee et d'inertie sont des variables aléatoires. On examine, a Faide de spectres d'amplitude des vagues en similitude, l'influence de la dispersion de ces coefficients sur revolution des forces, déterminées par evaluation spectrale, en fonction des probabilités de dépassement des charges dynamiques engendrées par les vagues. Enfin, on concretise cette analyse par l'examen du comportement d'une plateforme "schématique" en acier, implantée en tant qu'ouvrage -type dans une profondcur d'eau de 550 pieds.

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Variations on Fourier wave theory

Sobey

1989

Numerical Methods in Fluids

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SUMMARYA review of the analytical and numerical background of Fourier wave theory establishes the commonality of existing formulations and identifies a number of analytical and numerical assumptions that are unnecessary. Some formulations in particular lack flexibility in excluding the possibility of Stokes' second definition of phase speed. A generalized formulation is introduced for comparative purposes and it is shown that published solutions differ only in the approach to the limit wave. Detailed consideration of truncation order confirms that it is the crucial parameter, especially at extreme wave heights. All formulations considered are shown to provide acceptable solutions for small to moderately extreme waves.

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Shallow Water Waves a Comparison of Theories and Experiments

Cited by 32 publications

References 17 publications

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

Remote Sensing of Irregular Breaking Wave Parameters in Field Conditions

On the Reliability of the Spectral Method for the Design of Offshore Structures

Variations on Fourier wave theory

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