Simulating storm impacts and coastal flooding along The Netherlands coast

Ormondt, Maarten van; Dongeren, Ap van; Briere, Ch.; Sembiring, Leo Eliasta; Winter, Gundula; Lescinski, Jamie; Swinkels, Cilia

doi:10.1201/b13715-13

Cited by 7 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 4 publications

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“…According to the USLA, 80 per cent of all lifeguard rescues are associated with rip currents. In the Netherlands, a rip current prediction model system is being used on the basis of the bathymetry measurement along with application of the XBeach hydrodynamic model (Roelvink et al 2009), to predict current speeds and directions in the context of Egmond beach (Van Ormondt et al 2012). Other work Austin et al (2012) developed a rip currents operational tool using field measurements, a twodimensional horizontal (2DH) non-stationary model and ARGUS video sensing.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Moreover, two rip events (among those observed) were simulated using 2DH hydrodynamic model (XBeach). XBeach is a well-known tool for rip currents modelling (Austin et al 2012;Van Ormondt et al 2012), and we used it to obtain a further qualitative confirmation regarding the rip currents genesis in the study area. The results show how the proposed approach for rip currents hazard and risk assessment is easily adoptable and customizable for single study cases, and how the probabilistic approach could be easily integrated in a marine forecasts system.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Rip current hazard assessment on a sandy beach in Liguria, NW Mediterranean

et al. 2020

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Rip currents are one of the most significant environmental hazards for beachgoers and are of interest to coastal scientists. Several studies have been conducted to understand rip current dynamics, and several approaches for rip hazard assessment have been proposed. In general, the purpose is to provide knowledge and tools to support authorities and lifeguards in rip current risk prevention. This study proposes the application of an expeditious methodology to evaluate rip current hazard and risk, based on probability theory. The tested area was located along the Alassio beach, a renowned tourist destination located on the western Ligurian coast (NW Italy). A coastal video-monitoring system was used for rip currents individuation, whereas wave data were collected thanks to an oceanographic buoy managed by Regione Liguria. In detail, a yearly analysis was performed to identify the correspondence between rip currents and wave parameters data. The results showed that rip currents occur, in the study area, under moderate wave conditions ($$0.5 \le H_s \le 1.34$$ 0.5 ≤ H s ≤ 1.34 m; $$4.7\le T_m \le 7.0$$ 4.7 ≤ T m ≤ 7.0 s; $$150^{\circ }\,\hbox {N} \le \theta _m \le 227^{\circ }$$ 150 ∘ N ≤ θ m ≤ 227 ∘ N). Based on this analysis, an easy application of the probability theory was applied to evaluate the level of hazard. Moreover, considering the official tourist data, we also perform an expeditious rip currents risk evaluation. The results showed that the hazard level is considered high at annual time scale and moderate during the tourist season; the risk is related to seasonal presences. The study can propose a tool to support authorities and lifeguards in water safety planning and management.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rip current hazard assessment on a sandy beach in Liguria, NW Mediterranean

et al. 2020

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“…Computational capability has increased very rapidly, which allows us to perform a great number of computations within a reasonable time. With the input from a wellestablished hydro-meteorological regional model and updated nearshore bathymetry from a remote sensing source, rip current predictions can be generated for a local site in an efficient way (Alvarez-Ellacuria et al, 2010;Austin et al, 2013;Kim, Kim, and Lee, 2011;Sembiring et al, 2014;Van Dongeren et al, 2013;Van Ormondt et al, 2012).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The objective of this study is to apply a processbased numerical model to predict the initiation, lifespan, and risk indicator of bathymetrically controlled rip currents for Egmond aan Zee. The prediction window for swimming safety purposes can be provided 2 days in advance, after the lead time of the meteorological forecast (e.g., Van Ormondt et al [2012] for the Dutch Coast application). Moreover, the numerical model used to provide the prediction should be able to simulate conditions, including tidal current dynamics.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Dynamic Modelling of Rip Currents for Swimmer Safety on a Wind-Sea–Dominated Mesotidal Beach

Sembiring

Dongeren

Winter

et al. 2015

Journal of Coastal Research

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Sembiring, L.; van Dongeren, A.; Winter, G., and Roelvink, D., 0000. Dynamic modelling of rip currents for swimmer safety on a wind-sea-dominated mesotidal beach. Journal of Coastal Research, 00(0), 000-000. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.We apply the process-based model XBeach to predict bathymetrically controlled rip current flow occurrence, velocities and duration in the wind-sea-dominated environment of Egmond aan Zee, The Netherlands. The model is validated against data obtained during a 5-day field experiment with GPS-equipped floating drifters. Numerical model results show good agreement with data and simulate flow patterns that resemble the offshore flow through the rip channel and subsequent alongshore drift of the drifters. The average relative error of the drifter position is 0.15 and 0.19 for the crossshore and the alongshore position, respectively. Results from the numerical experiments suggest that the rip current intensity is tidally modulated. For the period of analysis, the rips are initiated approximately 5 hours before low tide, reaching a maximum speed during low tide, and becoming inactive 3 hours after low tide. Initiation and duration of the rip current is correlated to a ratio of~0.55 between offshore wave height and water depth over the bar. Further experiments with the numerical model show that at Egmond, drifters that are transported offshore by the rip current are unlikely to circulate back to the shore (with only a 14% return rate). Instead, they are ejected from the surf zone and advected alongshore, dependent on the direction of the tidal current. Without wave group forcing in the model (i.e. with a stationary wave resolving approach), the model's predictability decreases, which mostly affects the prediction of the spatial flow patterns. The rip current durations can still be predicted very well, whereas the rip current magnitude is underestimated. With wind stress forcing, the model's predictive skill increases for the alongshore flow when the wind speed is relatively high, but this is not the case for low wind conditions.

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“…Boundary conditions are obtained from the operational Coastal Storm Modelling System (CoSMoS; Van Ormondt et al 2012). This train of numerical wave and flow models is driven at the highest level by wave predictions for the Atlantic Ocean from NOAA's WaveWatch III model, meteorological predictions from the High Resolution Limited Area Model (HIRLAM) and astronomic water level predictions from the TPXO 6.2 model.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%