Skin Permeation: Spectroscopic Methods

Hadgraft, Jonathan; Lane, Majella E.

doi:10.1002/9781118140505.ch8

Cited by 1 publication

(1 citation statement)

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“…The spectral region from 700 to 1800 cm −1 was selected for comparison of the samples. The bands around 1743 and 1750 cm −1 were attributed to the characteristic carbonyl (C=O) stretch observed with skin and lipstick, respectively [36,37]. For IR characterization of the anthocyanins on the tape strips, the spectral region of 900-1160 cm −1 was assigned to the C-O stretching vibration of the sugar moiety of the glycosides present and to a lesser extent to the aromatic C-O stretching [38].…”

Section: Characterization Of Atr-ftir Spectral Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Ex Vivo and In Vivo Assessment of the Penetration of Topically Applied Anthocyanins Utilizing ATR-FTIR/PLS Regression Models and HPLC-PDA-MS

et al. 2020

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Anthocyanins are natural colorants with antioxidant properties, shown to inhibit photoaging reactions and reduce symptoms of some skin diseases. However, little is known about their penetration through the stratum corneum, a prerequisite for bioactivity. The aim was to investigate anthocyanin penetration from lipophilic cosmetic formulations through the skin using a porcine ear model and human volunteers. ATR-FTIR/PLS regression and HPLC-PDA-MS were used to analyze anthocyanin permeation through the stratum corneum. Penetration of all anthocyanins was evident and correlated with molecular weight and hydrophilicity. Lower-molecular-weight (MW) anthocyanins from elderberry (449–581 Da) were more permeable within the skin in both ex vivo and in vivo models (Kp = 2.3–2.4 × 10−4 cm h−1) than the larger anthocyanins (933-1019 Da) from red radish (Kp = 2.0–2.1 × 10−4 cm h−1). Elderberry and red radish anthocyanins were found at all levels of the stratum corneum and at depths for activity as bioactive ingredients for skin health.

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Section: Characterization Of Atr-ftir Spectral Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%