Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Abstract

Abstract:With the public's growing interest in skin whitening, lightening ingredients only used under dermatological supervision until recently, are more and more frequently incorporated into cosmetic formulas. The active agents that lighten skin tone are either natural or synthetic substances, and may act at various levels of melanogenesis. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone as whiter skin may be synonymous of wealth, health, youth, and/or beauty in different cultures. However, recent studies demonstrated the adverse effects of some of these ingredients, leading to their interdiction or restricted use under the European Directive and several other international regulations. After an overview of skin whitening practices and the associated risks, this article provides insight into the mechanisms involved in melanin synthesis and the biological assays available to attest the lightening activity of individual ingredients. The legislation dealing with the use of skin lighteners is then discussed. As traditional depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone and corticosteroids are of safety concern, the potential of natural extracts has been investigated more and more; finally, a synthesis of three years of research in our laboratory for such plant extracts will be given.

Development of a Natural Anti-Age Ingredient Based on Quercus pubescens Willd. Leaves Extract—A Case Study

“…monophenolase activity) and its further oxidation to dopaquinone (diphenolase activity). Since this enzyme plays a key role in melanogenesis, tyrosinase inhibitors are of great concern in the development of skin whitening agents [33]. The assays were performed as follows: 150 µL of a solution of mushroom tyrosinase prepared at a concentration of 171.66 U/mL in phosphate buffer (100 mM pH = 6.8) were distributed in each well (enzyme's final concentration per well: 100 U/mL (monophenolic activity assay) or 50 U/mL (diphenolic activity assay)), together with 7.5 µL of the extracts evaluated (final concentration per well: 100 µg/mL).…”

Applications for Marine Resources in Cosmetics

“…Inhibitors of this enzyme are actively sought [83]. Numerous natural compounds from marine organisms have already been employed as tyrosinase inhibitors, although some of them (hydroquinones) had negative effects on human health [84]. In recent years, research focused on the discovery of new marine microorganisms derived skin-whitening compounds.…”

Whitening Agents from Reseda luteola L. and Their Chemical Characterization Using Combination of CPC, UPLC-HRMS and NMR

“…Skin bleachers are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone, as whiter skin may be synonymous of youth and/or beauty, so their usage is particularly widespread in countries where skin phototypes IV, V, and VI are predominant [1]. The active agents that lighten skin tone are either natural or synthetic substances, and may act at various levels of melanogenesis.…”

“…Exploring new sources of natural whitening products appears crucial nowadays, given the fact that the ancient practice of skin bleaching is more newsworthy than ever [1]. Despite their emblematic uses, whitening ingredients such as hydroquinone, retinoic acids, corticoids, or mercury salts are of safety concern as they display several severe side effects, resulting in their interdiction or restricted use under the European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 [4] and several other international regulations.…”

“…The active agents that lighten skin tone are either natural or synthetic substances, and may act at various levels of melanogenesis. Tyrosinase inhibitors are the most common approach to achieve skin hypo-pigmentation, as this enzyme catalyzes the rate-limiting step of pigmentation [1][2][3].…”