Spectral Partitioning and Swells in the Black Sea

Vledder, G.P. Van; Akpınar, Adem

doi:10.9753/icce.v35.waves.21

Cited by 8 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…The average swell weight was below 0.4 (Fig. 3a), which is slightly higher than the winter average for the Black Sea (0.3, Van Vledder and Akpınar, 2016), but lower than in the World Ocean (over 0.5, Semedo et al, 2011). The Baltic Sea swell climate also differs from the World Ocean by typically being very short (under 5 s, Fig 4).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 88%

“…More elaborate schemes that are capable of identifying several swell systems have been developed (e.g. Portilla et al, 2009), and such methods have been tested in the Black Sea by (Van Vledder and Akpınar, 2016). We found that in the Baltic Sea even ECMWF's simple partitioning flagged a minimal amount of energy as swell during the growth phase of the the wave field, resulting in spurious non-zero swell weights (e.g.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

Björkqvist

Pärt

Alari

et al. 2021

Preprint

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Abstract. Swell dominates the global sea state and therefore significantly contributes to processes at the air and seabed interfaces. Nonetheless, smaller enclosed seas are detached from the global swell climate. We present swell statistics for the Baltic Sea using 20 years of swell partitioned model data. The swell significant wave height was mostly under 2 m, and in the winter (DJF) the mean significant swell height was typically less than 0.4 m; higher swell was found at limited nearshore areas. Swell waves were typically short (under 5 s), with mean periods over 8 s being rare. In open-sea areas the average ratio of swell energy (to total energy) was below 0.4 – significantly less than in World Ocean. Certain coastal areas were swell dominated over half the times, mostly because of weak winds (U < 5 ms−1) rather than high swell heights. Swell dominated events with a swell height over 1 m typically lasted under 10 h. A cross-correlation analysis indicates that swell in the open sea is mostly generated from local wind-sea when wind decays (dominant time lag roughly 15 h). Near the coast, however, the results suggests that the swell is partially detached from the local wind-waves, although not necessarily from the weather system that generates them.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 88%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

Björkqvist

Pärt

Alari

et al. 2021

Preprint

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“…In enclosed or semi-enclosed seas the swell climate is completely detached from the global swell conditions (Berkun, 2007;Van Vledder and Akpınar, 2017;Divinsky and Kosyan, 2018). One such semi-enclosed sea is the Baltic Sea, which is only connected to the ocean through the narrow and shallow Danish straits, through which no significant amount of swell can propagate.The small size of the Baltic Sea naturally limits the severeness of its swell climate compared to the oceans, and waves classified as swell might often not coincide with the above-mentioned conceptual definition.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

et al. 2021

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Abstract. The classic characterisation of swell as regular, almost monochromatic, wave trains does not necessarily accurately describe swell in water bodies shielded from the oceanic wave climate. In such enclosed areas the locally generated swell waves still contribute to processes at the air and seabed interfaces, and their presence can be quantified by partitioning wave components based on their speed relative to the wind. We present swell statistics for the semi-enclosed Baltic Sea using 20 years of swell-partitioned model data. The swell significant wave height was mostly under 2 m, and in the winter (DJF) the mean significant swell height was typically less than 0.4 m; higher swell was found in limited nearshore areas. Swell waves were typically short (under 5 s), with mean periods over 8 s being rare. In open-sea areas the average ratio of swell energy (to total energy) was mostly below 0.4 – significantly less than in the World Ocean. Certain coastal areas were swell dominated over half the time, mostly because of weak winds (U<5 m s−1) rather than high swell heights. Swell-dominated events with a swell height over 1 m typically lasted under 10 h. A cross-correlation analysis indicates that swell in the open sea is mostly generated from local wind sea when wind decays (dominant time lag roughly 15 h). Near the coast, however, the results suggest that the swell is partially detached from the local wind waves, although not necessarily from the weather system that generates them because the highest swell typically arrives with a roughly 10 h delay after the low-pressure system has already passed.

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“…For synoptic conditions of the Black Sea, this discreteness is clearly inadequate and the results obtained can be regarded as highly estimated. One of the recent works is the study [10], in which the authors used the capabilities of the SWAN model updated version for automatic separation of wave components. The result of the work was the climatic fields of wind-induced waves and swell for the Black Sea basin for 4 seasons.…”

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confidence: 99%

Wave Climate of the Coastal Zone of the Crimean Peninsula

Divinsky¹,

Kosyan²

2018

PhO

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The main goal of the present paper is to assess climatic features of the wind wave and swell distribution in the coastal zone of the Crimean Peninsula. Method of research is the mathematical modeling. The modern spectral wave model DHI MIKE 21 SW is used. The model was preliminary calibrated for the purpose of correct dividing the mixed surface waves into the components corresponding to pure wind waves and swell. The basic calibration parameters are the coefficients conditioning numerical interpretation of the energy dissipation processes resulting from white-capping (wave breaks in deep water). The research has resulted in creating a database of integral parameters of the wind waves and swell in the Black Sea for 1979-2016 with the 1-hour time resolution. The features of spatial distribution of the wind wave and swell powers, and also some statistical characteristics of wave variability are analyzed for the sea areas adjacent to the Crimean coast. It is shown that the swell contribution to the total wave energy of the surface waves increases from the western coast of the Crimea Peninsula towards the eastern one. Nearby the western coast, the swell contribution (in the average annual balance) constitutes about 15%, whereas nearby the southeastern one it exceeds 30%.

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Spectral Partitioning and Swells in the Black Sea

Cited by 8 publications

References 14 publications

Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

Swell hindcast statistics for the Baltic Sea

Wave Climate of the Coastal Zone of the Crimean Peninsula

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