2014
DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2014.05.015
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Spectral signatures for swash on reflective, intermediate and dissipative beaches

Abstract: In this paper we synthesise a large data set gathered from a wide variety of field deployments and integrate it with previously published results to identify the spectral signatures of swash from contrasting beach types. The field data set includes the full range of micro-tidal beach types (reflective, intermediate and dissipative), with beach gradients ranging from approximately 1:6 to 1:60 exposed to offshore significant wave heights of 0.5 m to 3.0 m.The ratio of swash energy in the short-wave (f>0.05 Hz) t… Show more

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Cited by 45 publications
(31 citation statements)
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“…Model results are collected for 2700 s after 900 s of model spin‐up. In agreement with field observations [ Ruggiero et al ., ; Hughes et al ., ], the simulations reproduce the f4 frequency roll‐off over the incident band of the spectrum (not shown).…”
Section: Results For Realistic Random Sea Statesmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Model results are collected for 2700 s after 900 s of model spin‐up. In agreement with field observations [ Ruggiero et al ., ; Hughes et al ., ], the simulations reproduce the f4 frequency roll‐off over the incident band of the spectrum (not shown).…”
Section: Results For Realistic Random Sea Statesmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Saturation concepts have been extended to the naturally occurring, broad‐banded, and directionally spread spectra of incident waves. Observations suggest that runup saturation occurs at sea swell frequencies (nominally 0.04–0.25 Hz on ocean coasts) but that infragravity wave height at the shoreline (e.g., runup) is not saturated and continues to increase with increasing H 0 [e.g., Huntley et al , ; Guza and Thornton , ; Baldock and Holmes , ; Ruggiero et al , ; Senechal et al , ; Hughes et al , , and others].…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Pesquisas (HUGHES et al, 2014) obtiveram sucesso neste tipo de abordagem. Eles concluíram que, para cada estágio praial exista a dominância de uma determinada banda, o que corrobora em partes com pesquisas anteriores.…”
Section: Um Trem De Ondas Curtas Pode Contribuir Tantounclassified
“…Estudos recentes (VOUSDOUKAS et al, 2014b;HUGHES et al, 2014) empregaram sistemas de vídeo imageamento para o conhecimento da morfodinâmica praial através da análise espectral do espraiamento máximo.…”
Section: Sistema De Monitoramento Por Vídeo Imagensunclassified