Two fundamental theorems by Spitzer-Erickson and Kesten-Maller on the fluctuation type (positive divergence, negative divergence or oscillation) of a real-valued random walk (S n ) n≥0 with iid increments X 1 , X 2 , . . . and the existence of moments of various related quantities like the first passage into (x, ∞) and the last exit time from (−∞, x] for arbitrary x ≥ 0 are studied in the Markov-modulated situation when the X n are governed by a positive recurrent Markov chain M = (M n ) n≥0 on a countable state space S, thus for a Markov random walk (M n , S n ) n≥0 . Our approach is based on the natural strategy to draw on the results in the iid case for the embedded ordinary random walks (S τn(i) ) n≥0 , where τ 1 (i), τ 2 (i), . . . denote the successive return times of M to state i, and an analysis of the excursions of the walk between these epochs. However, due to these excursions, generalizations of the afore-mentioned theorems are surprisingly more complicated and require the introduction of various excursion measures so as to characterize the existence of moments of different quantities.