Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review

Langer, Kaja; Simon, Christian; Wiemeyer, Josef

doi:10.1519/jsc.0000000000004286

Cited by 16 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 43 publications

(180 reference statements)

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“…To improve CSHT, the results suggest reducing body weight, as well as improving HGS and pull-up performance. However, climbing is characterized by a wide spectrum of conditional and coordinative abilities that are relevant to performance [ 31 ]. Therefore, isolated training of the parameters found appears to be insufficient for an optimal training strategy.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Therefore, isolated training of the parameters found appears to be insufficient for an optimal training strategy. According to [ 31 ], the best effect when undertaking conditioning training in climbing is obtained through a mixture of dynamic and static exercises in a semi-specific setting, combining hypertrophy, maximum strength, and endurance. In terms of more climbing-specific training, [ 32 ] states that interval bouldering works best as a form of sport-specific conditioning training, which may, in parallel, show positive effects on HGS and pull-up performance.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Evaluation of Influencing Factors on the Maximum Climbing Specific Holding Time: An Inferential Statistics and Machine Learning Approach

Dindorf

Bartaguiz

Dully

et al. 2022

JFMK

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Handgrip strength (HGS) appears to be an indicator of climbing performance. The transferability of HGS measurements obtained using a hand dynamometer and factors that influence the maximal climbing-specific holding time (CSHT) are largely unclear. Forty-eight healthy subjects (27 female, 21 male; age: 22.46 ± 3.17 years; height: 172.76 ± 8.91 cm; weight: 69.07 ± 12.41 kg; body fat: 20.05% ± 7.95%) underwent a maximal pull-up test prior to the experiment and completed a self-assessment using a Likert scale questionnaire. HGS was measured using a hand dynamometer, whereas CSHT was measured using a fingerboard. Multiple linear regressions showed that weight, maximal number of pull-ups, HGS normalized by subject weight, and length of the middle finger had a significant effect on the maximal CSHT (non-dominant hand: R2corr = 0.63; dominant hand: R2corr = 0.55). Deeper exploration using a machine learning model including all available data showed a predictive performance with R2 = 0.51 and identified another relevant parameter for the regression model. These results call into question the use of hand dynamometers and highlight the performance-related importance of body weight in climbing practice. The results provide initial indications that finger length may be used as a sub-factor in talent scouting.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Evaluation of Influencing Factors on the Maximum Climbing Specific Holding Time: An Inferential Statistics and Machine Learning Approach

Dindorf

Bartaguiz

Dully

et al. 2022

JFMK

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“…Arm muscle endurance is the ability of a muscle or group of muscles to be able to contract dynamically or statically by holding a load for a relatively long time, to be able to maintain stability between the traction and thrust exerted by the arm muscles in order to create consistency of movement from the start. End of the game (Langer et al, 2022). The use of arm muscle endurance in archers is when pulling the bow, aiming (holding), and releasing arrows.…”

Section: The Difference In Effect Between Athletes Who Have High and ...mentioning

confidence: 99%

The Effect of Triceps Press-Down, Seated Rowing and Endurance Methods on Arm Muscle Strength

Noviantoro¹,

Irianto²

2022

IJMRA

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The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of the triceps press down, seated rowing and endurance exercise methods on increasing arm muscle strength. Factorial method 2 x 2. There were 24 research samples. The pull up test instrument was for endurance and the holding bow digitec test. ANOVA data analysis technique α = 0.05. Results (1) there is a significant difference between the triceps press-down exercise and seated rowing exercise in increasing arm muscle strength. (2) There is a significant difference in the effect of athletes who have high and low muscle endurance on increasing arm muscle strength. (3) There is a significant interaction between triceps press down and seated rowing exercises with muscle endurance (high and low) on arm muscle strength in archery athletes.

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“…Speed climbers require higher levels of strength, anaerobic power, and speed compared to climbers of other disciplines [ 3 – 5 ]. Traditionally, climbing training programs have primarily focused on developing upper limb capabilities [ 6 ]. However, recent studies have highlighted the significant influence of the lower body in speed climbing, as it demands different abilities compared to other climbing disciplines, founding strong correlations between running time and leg power output and hypertrophy [ 7 – 9 ].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Road to Paris 2024: force-velocity profile in different speed climbers’ abilities

de la Cruz,

Carranza,

González Ravé

2024

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Speed climbing will be a new discipline in Paris 2024. The physical requirements of speed climbing are different from the other climbing modalities due to the short event time requiring higher level of strength and power. These parameters have been measured through the Force-Velocity (F-V) profile in different climbing disciplines. However, there are no known results evaluating different speed climbing abilities to establish whether F-V relationship is a determining factor between performance levels. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the upper and lower limbs F-V profile in different speed climbing abilities considering sex. Twenty-six speed climbers were divided into two groups based on their level of performance: international level (men n = 7 and women n = 2) and national level (men n = 8 and women n = 7). Participants performed pull-ups and squat incremental tests and F-V profile variables [Maximum theorical values of force (F0), velocity (V0) and power (P max )], one-repetition maximum value (1RM) and %1RM where peak power was expressed were collected using a linear encoder. There were significant differences in F 0 , relative force, %1RM where peak power was expressed, and 1RM in pull-ups (p < 0.05) between groups. However, there were not significant differences between groups in squat variables. No significant sex differences were found in any variable. There were moderate-strong correlations between running time and 1RM (pull-ups and squat), F 0 and FV-slope (pull-ups) (p < 0.05) analyzed in the whole group. In conclusion, F 0 and 1RM in pull-ups were significantly higher in international climbers. Therefore, national climbers should focus their training on improving force by training with heavy loads. Additionally, squat F-V profile variables do not seem to be as important as in the pull-up for performance.

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Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review

Abstract: Supplemental Digital Content is Available in the Text.

Cited by 16 publications

References 43 publications

Evaluation of Influencing Factors on the Maximum Climbing Specific Holding Time: An Inferential Statistics and Machine Learning Approach

Evaluation of Influencing Factors on the Maximum Climbing Specific Holding Time: An Inferential Statistics and Machine Learning Approach

The Effect of Triceps Press-Down, Seated Rowing and Endurance Methods on Arm Muscle Strength

Road to Paris 2024: force-velocity profile in different speed climbers’ abilities

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