Sustainability dichotomies of used clothes supply chains: a critical review of key concerns and strategic resources

Abstract

PurposeUsed clothes supply chains are becoming increasingly complex, fragmented and less transparent due to rising volumes of discarded clothes and its dispersed reverse logistics operations across the Global North (GN) and Global South (GS). While it has a promising impact on circular economy and international trade growth, increasing exports of used clothes and overflowing landfills raise some negative concerns on its overall sustainability. This paper addresses the dichotomy that exists in terms of interpreting the sustainability credentials of used clothes supply chains.Design/methodology/approachA systematic literature review was carried out and 55 articles were examined to identify the triple bottom line (TBL) sustainability impacts of used clothes supply chains. TBL sustainability issues were identified, reflected through the lens of natural resource-based view and interpreted in the form of propositions.FindingsThe paper pinpoints seven TBL sustainability concerns and prescribes three sets of strategic resources required in glocal used clothes supply chains for mitigating these. These are (1) slowing the supply chain by tackling poor quality, overproduction and oversupply issues, (2) improving logistics/supply chain infrastructure and ecosystem collaboration and (2) embedding transparent environmental, social and governance (ESG) measures taken by both value chain actors and regulatory bodies, for embracing system-level sustainable development.Originality/valueThis is one of the first studies to analyse TBL sustainability of glocal north–south used clothes supply chains. The study is unique in terms of its scope and contribution to the sustainable supply chain literature.

Circular supply chain valorisation through sustainable value mapping in the post-consumer used clothing sector

“…The nine antecedents of environmental VU mostly pointed to the high environmental footprints of the cross-border transport of used clothes, either due to a lack of scale and infrastructure, cost-efficient handling therein or adequate knowledge about processing activities. While increasing competition for NPOs largely hampers their ability to generate higher social value, such as creating competitive jobs outside the labour market, the lack of adequate traceability along the CSC has negative social spillovers in the Global South, where extremely low-quality used clothes often end up in landfills (Dissanayake and Pal, 2023). Despite fewer antecedents, it cannot be concluded that social value is already adequately captured in used clothing CSCs; however, social sustainability has yet to receive comprehensive attention and understanding in the CSC context, as also indicated by Walker et al .…”

Microfiber Pollution: A Systematic Literature Review to Overcome the Complexities in Knit Design to Create Solutions for Knit Fabrics

“…The PRISMA 2020 statement (from here on PRISMA) consists of a detailed 27-item checklist that is worked through over four phases, and thus can be replicated by others wishing to conduct the same research . Moreover, PRISMA is a commonly used tool and has been previously utilized in SLRs that also focus on a highly complex and topical areas (e.g., Dissanayake and Pal; Jagaba et al). , The PRISMA 2020 checklist is commonly accompanied by a flowchart diagram, visualized in Figure , which outlines the individual steps taken to reach the final number of articles analyzed. These are further detailed in the following sections.…”

“… 33 Moreover, PRISMA is a commonly used tool and has been previously utilized in SLRs that also focus on a highly complex and topical areas (e.g., Dissanayake and Pal; Jagaba et al). 34 , 35 The PRISMA 2020 checklist is commonly accompanied by a flowchart diagram, visualized in Figure 2 , which outlines the individual steps taken to reach the final number of articles analyzed. These are further detailed in the following sections.…”