Tests for evaluating textile aging

Fulton, Mackenzie; Rezazadeh, Moein; Torvi, David A.

doi:10.1016/b978-0-08-100453-1.00006-4

Cited by 9 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 59 publications

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“…In a controlled lab environment, the ageing factors and amount of exposure are always known; however, ageing in controlled environments is limited by existing test standards and the difficulty of estimating a realistic amount of exposure [40]. The number of existing ageing standards are few and standards do not exist for all types of ageing impacts.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Is It Worth Buying a Second-Hand Shell Jacket? An Evaluation of Shell Jackets’ Functionality and Price over Time

Nilsson,

Björklund,

Waller

et al. 2024

Sustainability

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Global textile production and consumption has increased steadily over the past 15 years, which has caused significant impacts on the climate and the environment. In 2022, the EU launched a strategy for sustainable and circular textiles, stating that extending the life of textile products is the most efficient way to reduce their impact on the climate and the environment. Shell jackets for outdoor use are textile products that are frequently discarded by their first users and re-sold on the second-hand market. This study evaluates the performance of 16 second-hand shell jackets from three second-hand stores in Sweden via material testing of four key functional aspects. Comparing the results with the jackets’ original performance, this study describes the change in functionality over time. The results indicate that air permeability does not change significantly, whereas water repellency, water penetration resistance, and breathability decrease over time, although they do so at different rates. With the aim of promoting circularity and encouraging longer product use, this study also compares the price evolution of jackets with their functionality over time. The results reveal that the resale price of the jackets is lower than could be expected based on the level of remaining functionality in the jackets.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Is It Worth Buying a Second-Hand Shell Jacket? An Evaluation of Shell Jackets’ Functionality and Price over Time

Nilsson,

Björklund,

Waller

et al. 2024

Sustainability

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“…The CoQ score is then computed from these performances according to the consumers' perception of deterioration (Figure 2). expertise, literature review [44][45][46][47][48][49] and companies' standards, a short standards list was suggested to consider these conditions of use (Table 1). The CoQ score is then computed from these performances according to the consumers' perception of deterioration (Figure 2).…”

Section: Consumer-oriented Quality (Coq) Computation Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

A New Longevity Design Methodology Based on Consumer-Oriented Quality for Fashion Products

et al. 2022

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Design for longevity is known as an eco-design opportunity and could help to reduce the environmental footprint of energy-free items. However, extending the lifespan of products is not always desirable and the focus should be on achieving an optimal lifespan. Operationally, recommendations for design for longevity usually refer to durability, repairability, upgradability or emotional attachment. The use of high-quality and robust material is frequently stated, although it is not obvious what high-quality material is. Based on a quality by design approach, this study aims to propose a methodology to design for optimal longevity with a consumer-oriented approach. To do so, it includes data collection of product quality and manufacturing processes and then embeds consumers’ knowledge. These are combined into data analysis to help to highlight relationships and the most appropriate quality contributors. This methodology relies on three-steps: first, a single quality score which includes consumers’ knowledge; secondly, a multi-scale reverse-engineering process; and finally a data analysis using principal component analysis. The originality of such a proposal is that it enables the consumers’ knowledge to be considered in the identification of appropriated quality contributors. The proposed methodology is implemented in the fashion sector as it is said to be the second most polluting one. Moreover, given the huge variety of materials and production processes available in textiles, the selection of the most suitable recommendations to support a longer lifespan is very complex. The presented case study involves 29 T-shirts and reveals the mechanical-related strengths to be the main quality contributors.

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“…This identification should rely on textile expertise, scientific literature and companies' standards. Based on (Bide, 2012;Fulton, Rezazadeh, & Torvi, 2018;Nayak & Padhye, 2015;Ray, 2013;Saville, 1999cSaville, , 1999bSaville, , 1999aShaw, 2012), an example of standards pre-screening to address some common damage is given in Table 2.…”

Section: Table 1: Clothing Objective Disposal Reasonsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Standards Selection Approach for Clothing Longevity Indicators

Benkirane¹,

Thomassey²,

Koehl³

et al. 2021

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Given the diversity of textile products, their uses and also the reasons related to their endof-life, it appears that estimating the effective lifespan of clothing items is unrealistic. To estimate a lifespan equivalent, a reasonable solution is to rely on standards commonly performed by the apparel industry. However, according to the international classification of standards, the textile and clothing sector benefits from more than 1.900 standards covering the aspects of processes, materials, semifinished and finished products. Thus, this paper focuses on how to make the standard selection consistent to estimate the product in accordance with the end of life of apparel. First, a list of objective clothing disposal reasons is proposed and is to associate to a standards pre-screening that enable the assessment of the ability of a product to withstand the damage. Then, since a single aggregated score is desired, the tests results are aggregated into a single normative duration index. In a robustness analysis, the influence of the number of metrological tests constituting the score is investigated. It enables the identification of the most appropriated tests with the aim to rationalize the methodology regarding time and cost consideration. In a case study, 29 T-shirts were tested regarding five damage categories. Based on expert knowledge and literature review, the laboratory tests procedure involved a selection of ten tests, out of which the five providing the maximum explanation rates were investigated.

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Tests for evaluating textile aging

Cited by 9 publications

References 59 publications

Is It Worth Buying a Second-Hand Shell Jacket? An Evaluation of Shell Jackets’ Functionality and Price over Time

Is It Worth Buying a Second-Hand Shell Jacket? An Evaluation of Shell Jackets’ Functionality and Price over Time

A New Longevity Design Methodology Based on Consumer-Oriented Quality for Fashion Products

Standards Selection Approach for Clothing Longevity Indicators

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