Textile Hand: A New Method for Textile Objective Evaluation

Strazdiene, Eugenija; tė, G. Martiši; Gutauskas, M.; Papreckiene, Laima

doi:10.1080/00405000308630613

Cited by 27 publications

(26 citation statements)

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“…As the fabric hand is closely related to consumer demand, many studies have investigated definitions and assessments of this concept (Barker & Scheininger, 1982;Ellis, & Garnsworthy, 1980;Kawabata, 1980;Vaughan & Kim, 1975;Winakor et al, 1980;Wrobel & Lanhenhove, 2012), as well as preferences for certain fabrics. Various analysis methods and tools have been developed to evaluate the fabric hand and predict consumer needs by means of the related physical and mechanical properties of the material (Jhanji et al, 2016;Joen et al, 2010;Khanna et al, 2015;Kwon, 2010;Philippe et al, 2004;Roh & Ryu, 2007;Roh et al, 2013;Strazdienė et al, 2003). Cardello et al (2003) predicted handle and comfort of military clothing fabric from sensory and instrumental data using the comfort affective labeled magnitude (CALM) scale.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Subjective Hand and Preferences Evaluation of Artificial Leather by Use

Roh¹,

Oh²

2017

SFTI

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: Sensory attributes and preferences that contribute to consumer satisfaction with artificial leather were measured by subjective evaluation, and subjective hand and preferences were analyzed in relation to its use. Using tactile and visual senses, 50 experts in fashion and textile industry evaluated leathers classified into two categories, suede and polyurethane coated, according to different manufacturing methods. They answered questions on subjective hand and preferences of different artificial leathers of various fashion items (jackets, purses, bags, shoes, boots, furniture, etc.), using specific adjectives to describe the hand properties. As a result, it was found that the subjective hand properties of artificial leathers were related to 'Thickness', 'Fullness/softness', 'Surface contour', 'Stickiness', and 'Elasticity'. The leather type from different manufacturing methods influenced their perceived hand and preferences relating to use. By use, different hands were preferred. The preferences for jackets and furniture of suede type leathers were related to their surface properties, whereas the preferences for items of the other type of leathers were associated with their resilience. On the other hand, in the case of polyurethane coated leathers, the preferences for jackets were significantly affected by their thickness, while those for the other items were influenced by their resilience and surface properties.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Subjective Hand and Preferences Evaluation of Artificial Leather by Use

Roh¹,

Oh²

2017

SFTI

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“…A few years ago, the instrumental method KTUGriff-Tester enabling to determine the textile hand parameters was introduced (Strazdienė, Martišiūtė, Gutauskas, & Papreckienė, 2003). Over this period, similar methods have also been developed in other countries (Hasani & Planck, 2009;Issa, Schacher, & Adolphe, 2007;Mogahzy, Kiline, & Hassan, 2005).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Changes in the geometry of the specimens used in the hand test are also meaningful. The shape of the outer specimen contours and transformations thereof during deformation have been demonstrated to depend on anisotropy of the material properties; they may be simulated applying mathematical models of shortened epicycloids or Cassini ovals (Daukantienė, Bernotienė, & Gutauskas, 2005;Strazdienė et al, 2003;Valiukėnaitė, Papreckienė, & Gutauskas, 2010;Hsing, 2007) that allow establishing the number of the waves of the specimen deformed under low deformations precisely. The shape of specimens may be simulated employing models of the sinusoid (Strazdienė et al, 2003;Valiukėnaitė, Papreckienė, & Gutauskas, 2010).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The process implies low time input for specimen preparation that is independent of material direction (warp/wale and weft/course) and reduces the number of test results. Furthermore, it is meaningful and reflects anisotropy of the material properties that is obvious from the geometrical shape of a deformed disc-shaped specimen (Daukantienė et al, 2003;Daukantienė, Zmailaitė et al, 2005;Daukantienė et al, 2006;Juodsnukytė et al, 2005;Strazdienė et al, 2003;Strazdienė & Gutauskas, 2006;Truncytė & Gutauskas, 2005;Truncytė & Gutauskas, 2006;Truncytė, Papreckienė, & Gutauskas, 2007;Valiukėnaitė, Papreckienė, & Gutauskas, 2010). Initial conditions of an experiment were chosen by thickness δ of textiles.…”

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confidence: 99%

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Evaluation of the influence of chemical softening on the properties of cellulose-origin textiles

Koženiauskienė

Daukantienė

Gutauskas

2013

Journal of The Textile Institute

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The present research has explored the influence made by chemical softening with liquid household chemical softeners on changes in the structure and hand properties of the cellulose-origin textiles manufactured from cotton, bamboo and viscose spun yarns. Effectiveness of technological treatment has been analysed via application of an experimental method based on the pulling of a disc-shaped specimen through the central nozzle of KTU-GriffTester device. Analysis of the obtained results has demonstrated that washing of textiles leads to decrease in the hand parameters thereof such as the maximum pulling force (P max ), tangent of the slope angle of the typical pulling curve H-P initial part (tgα), pulling work (A) and complex hand parameter (Q) as well as in mechanical thickness ratio (Δδ) compared to the ones of the unwashed (control) textiles independent of the fibre content and manufacturing type thereof. Hand properties of the textiles under investigation have been shown to improve after chemical softening compared to the washed textiles, but they have never been comparable to the ones of the untreated (control) textiles. Chemical softening with the cationic softeners "Wansou" (V), "Pflege Weichspuler" (P) and "Surcare" (Sr) containing 5-15% of PAM has determined the best hand of the textiles under discussion compared to other chemical softeners.

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“…The first method is sufficiently well‐studied in aspect of theory and is widely used for the investigation of mechanical properties of materials 1–8. In this case, a disc‐shaped specimen restricted in the clamp is loaded by a punch until puncture (breaking) of specimen or until unchangeable value of punch force or punch deformation, i.e., P = const or H = const.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

New aspects of polymeric sheet punch deformation

Daukantienė

Bernotiene

Gutauskas

2006

J of Applied Polymer Sci

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Two methods of punch deformation of flat polymeric materials have been studied and compared between themselves. The areas of the method application for the determination of fabric mechanical and exploitation stability and also the suitability of methods for the evaluation of effectiveness of technological treatment with liquid chemical softeners have been analyzed. The geometrical and mechanical behavior of flat polymeric materials (woven and knitted fabrics) during pulling of a disc-shaped specimen through a central hole of KTU-Griff-Tester has been analyzed on the basis of pulling parameters.

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Textile Hand: A New Method for Textile Objective Evaluation

Cited by 27 publications

References 1 publication

The Subjective Hand and Preferences Evaluation of Artificial Leather by Use

The Subjective Hand and Preferences Evaluation of Artificial Leather by Use

Evaluation of the influence of chemical softening on the properties of cellulose-origin textiles

New aspects of polymeric sheet punch deformation

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