The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid

Abstract

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

“…3- O -Ethyl ascorbic acid (7) is a stabilized form of AA, and skin permeation can be enhanced by using a proper single solvent, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, and 1,2-hexanediol [ 85 ]. A serum containing 3- O -ethyl ascorbic acid (30%), lactic acid (1%), and other ingredients has been tested for safety and biological activities in HaCaT keratinocytes, human dermal fibroblasts, reconstructed human epidermis, and reconstructed human pigmented epidermis [ 86 ]. The serum reduced ultraviolet radiation (UV)-B-induced DNA damage and melanin synthesis and increased collagen production.…”

Dendrobium officinale flowers' topical extracts improve skin oxidative stress and aging

“…30 The characteristics of skin aging are mainly manifested in the reduction of skin water content, collagen content, wrinkles, rough skin, large pores, dark yellow skin, pigmentation spots or irregular pigmentation. 29,45 After using DOF topically for 8 weeks, the facial moisture and elasticity of the subjects increased significantly, and wrinkles, pores, purple spots, brown spots and roughness were improved to varying degrees. The number of facial wrinkles, pores, purple spots, and brown spots decreased significantly compared with that before use.…”

“…The content of skin natural moisturizing factor will gradually decrease, the metabolism of keratinocytes slows down, the synthesis of skin collagen will decrease, the deterioration will increase, the skin immunity will also weaken, and then the aging performance will appear to grow 30 . The characteristics of skin aging are mainly manifested in the reduction of skin water content, collagen content, wrinkles, rough skin, large pores, dark yellow skin, pigmentation spots or irregular pigmentation 29,45 . After using DOF topically for 8 weeks, the facial moisture and elasticity of the subjects increased significantly, and wrinkles, pores, purple spots, brown spots and roughness were improved to varying degrees.…”

One-Step Surface-Treatment Reagent (35% 3-O-Ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid Plus 50% Citric Acid Solution) Restores the Shear Bond Strength of Metal Brackets Bonded to Bleached Human Enamel: An In Vitro Study

“…An ascorbic acid derivative called 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, containing an ethyl group at the third carbon position, is extensively used in the cosmetic industry as an antioxidant and anti-aging ingredient [24,25]. This structure in 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid prevents the ionization of the 3-OH group, which consequently inhibits the oxidation of the molecule [26,27].…”