The concept of sphingolipid rheostat in skin: a driving force for new active ingredients in cosmetic applications

Abstract

Skin is a representative model of the complex metabolism that lipids may trigger. It is known that the biosynthesis of these lipids in mammalian cells generally ensures the cell membranes stability and participates to the signaling function. In the inner layers of the skin, the “de-novo” synthesis is the driving force ensuring proliferation, development and intercellular signaling. To promote stratum corneum formation, lipid catabolism leads to the renewal of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol that are responsible for the cohesion of the stratum corneum, its permeability, hydration, moisturization and signalling with the outer skin layers, appendages and inner layers secretion (cytokines, neuropeptides). Some actives applied in local treatments (i.e., peptides, n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), ceramides, urea or an aqueous extract of Gromwell) and in oral treatment (i.e., sphingomyelin, n-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA)) promote sphingosine 1-phosphate (S1P) production by the sphingolipid rheostat via triggering the salvage process along with autophagy and detoxification in aged skin. This review gives some basis for using the concept of sphingolipid metabolism rheostat in skin as the driving force for the development of new cosmetic actives ingredients or for repositioning the benefits of other actives for the skin.

Comprehensive metabolomics of Philippine Stichopus cf. horrens reveals diverse classes of valuable small molecules for biomedical applications

“…Coupled decrease in the levels of cerebrosides were also related to a decrease in the structural integrity of cell membranes and shrinkage of body walls [53]. Outside their physiological significance, the benefits of sphingolipids on skin have been extensively studied [61]. Duan, et al (2016), reported the digestion and absorption of dietary cerebrosides into ceramides that facilitate wound healing and improved skin barrier function in mice [62].…”

Implication of adipocytes from subcutaneous adipose tissue and fatty acids in skin inflammation caused by λ-carrageenin in gilthead seabream (Sparus aurata)

“…compared to fish injected with PBS and sampled at the same time. SMs are sphingolipids that are mainly concentrated in the caveolae of the cell membrane of adipocytes and in the lipid rafts of macrophages, in both cases performing specialized functions that can modulate the inflammatory response [73,74]. These functions could include cell signalling, and participation in clathrin-independent processes of endocytosis, phagocytosis and apoptosis [73,74].…”

“…SMs are sphingolipids that are mainly concentrated in the caveolae of the cell membrane of adipocytes and in the lipid rafts of macrophages, in both cases performing specialized functions that can modulate the inflammatory response [73,74]. These functions could include cell signalling, and participation in clathrin-independent processes of endocytosis, phagocytosis and apoptosis [73,74]. Thus, the function of SM could be linked to the activation of regulatory mechanisms such as apoptosis of immune cells that have already fulfilled their function at the site of inflammation to avoid excessive inflammation, and their subsequent elimination by phagocytosis.…”

Docosahexaenoic Acid Modulates Paracellular Absorption of Testosterone and Claudin-1 Expression in a Tissue-Engineered Skin Model

“…Over the last decade, a variety of studies have proven the efficiency of a PUFA-rich diet in optimizing the skin barrier function [ 18 , 19 , 20 ]. In fact, the physical structure of the barrier function is dependent on LA, since it was reported that the SC contains large amounts of sphingolipids rich in linoleate content [ 21 ]. Additionally, bioactive lipids derived from both n-3 and n-6 PUFAs regulate several biological pathways in the skin and might be involved in the formation of the SC, even though the exact underlying mechanisms are still not understood [ 18 , 22 ].…”