The Embodied Turn: Making and Remaking Dress as an Academic Practice

Davidson, Hilary

doi:10.1080/1362704x.2019.1603859

Cited by 30 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 54 publications

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“…He seeks to demonstrate that studies of embodiment in fashion can be enriched by research methods integrating the production and use of clothing as well as the tactile and kinaesthetic experiences of dressed bodies (Robinson 2019: 441). Davidson (2019) re-creates items of historical dress, arguing that this archaeological experiment is best suited to explore clothing structures, re-animate the wearing experience and spur historical discussions and debates. This article builds on the above research methods, closing the gaps left by a dearth of first-hand information.…”

Section: New Inspirationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Democracy in female fast-fashion: A case study in Taiwan

Lin

2021

East Asian Journal of Popular Culture

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This article investigates the influences of fast-fashion on the dynamic performance of dressed bodies of female consumers aged 18–45 in Taiwan, the demographic that most enjoys buying fast-fashion clothing. It analyses the types of fashion democracy that fast-fashions provide Taiwanese female consumers. This article also proposes an alternative qualitative research method and concept that allows researchers to investigate the intricate relationships between clothing, the body and society by reviewing the interactive relationship between clothing patterns and wearers’ bodies. Findings show that Uniqlo is the most popular fast-fashion brand in Taiwan exhibiting fashion democracy for Taiwanese female consumers.

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Section: New Inspirationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Democracy in female fast-fashion: A case study in Taiwan

Lin

2021

East Asian Journal of Popular Culture

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“…Positive results obtained by Kirkland et al (2015), Cybulska (2012), Loscialpo (2016), Papagiannakis et al (2018), Stewart and Marcketti (2012) have shown the perspective applications of the digital technologies and the computer-generated replicas of historical systems "fashionable bodycostume" in contemporary museum exhibitions. Davidson demonstrated how reconstruction as a research methodology becomes a powerful tool that opens new ways for studying the dress history in-depth and obtaining unique insights (Davidson, 2015(Davidson, , 2019Davidson and Pīgozne, 2010).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Parametric modeling of historical mannequins

Moskvin

Moskvina

Kuzmichev

2019

IJCST

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Purpose Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume history. Digital exhibitions require historical dress forms which were used in the past for costume presentation. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new method for parametric modeling of the nineteenth century dress forms in accordance with fashionable body shape. Design/methodology/approach Due to limited number of body measurements in historical sizing tables, it is impossible to redesign the morphology of old fashionable body with high accuracy by means of contemporary CAD. The developed method is based on two sources of information: first, historical sizing tables with body measurements; second, historical corsets. By combining both resources and applying virtual try-on technology, the full anthropometric database about the nineteenth century fashionable body shape has been organized and the parametric model of historical dress form has been generated. Findings The digital replica of deformable parametric dress form was created automatically in accordance with the historical sizing systems and the corsets construction. The process of reproduction of a historical dress form has been done with high accuracy due to substantial advantages of contemporary software. Originality/value This study shows new way of anthropometric data generating from the construction of close-fitting and compression undergarments. The developed method and the new database can be applied for each type of dress forms which were used in the second part of the nineteenth century to generate its digital replica in virtual reality. The new approach is joining the digital technologies and the professional knowledge as an important part of cultural heritage for studying, recreating and presenting historical costume.

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“…By drawing from Strauss’s (2001) work, the authors (Smith & Stannard, 2016) confirmed that several variables impact dress authenticity while also revealing that personal needs such as mobility, fit, and aesthetic preferences impacted the authenticity of the gowns. Smith and Stannard (2016) also found that reenactors negotiated their desire for authenticity with personal needs and limitations, a process similar to what has been referred to as “informed compromise” that occurs when recreating extant garments (Davidson, 2019b, p. 342).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…As their population spans the globe, historical reenactors have attracted attention from scholars, including those interested in reenactment dress (Davidson, 2019b). The pursuit of authenticity has been and remains the primary focus of reenactment scholarship.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

The Impact of Historical Knowledge, Skill, and Interpretive Attitude on the Authenticity of Female Reenactors' Regency-Style Gowns

Smith

2021

Clothing and Textiles Research Journal

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The purpose of this qualitative case study research was to explore how elements of and barriers to authenticity impact the level of authenticity achieved in Regency reenactors’ gowns. Interviews with ten female Regency reenactors and participant observation were conducted. Participants displayed categorical differences in their commitment to historical knowledge and willingness (interpretive attitude) and ability (skill) to replicate primary historical sources. Overall, the results confirmed that reenactors negotiate their desire for authenticity with personal needs and limitations when creating reenactment dress but contradicted the idea that authenticity is a function of developing historical knowledge. Reenactors’ interpretive attitude, which was often influenced by skill level, was more influential than historical knowledge in pursuing and achieving authenticity. This research resulted in the revision and integration of The Historic Styles of Dress Design Considerations Model into the Authenticity Continuum, creating the Updated Authenticity Continuum, which may be used in future research reenactment and related topics.

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The Embodied Turn: Making and Remaking Dress as an Academic Practice

Cited by 30 publications

References 54 publications

Democracy in female fast-fashion: A case study in Taiwan

Democracy in female fast-fashion: A case study in Taiwan

Parametric modeling of historical mannequins

The Impact of Historical Knowledge, Skill, and Interpretive Attitude on the Authenticity of Female Reenactors' Regency-Style Gowns

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