The finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport‐climbers: an exploratory study on its indirect approximation

Abstract

Blood flow partially determines specific climbing endurance (SCE) as it mediates oxygen bioavailability in the finger flexors. Blood flow is related to occlusion threshold (OT), which is defined as the contraction intensity at which intramuscular pressure exceeds perfusion blood pressure resulting in the cessation of local blood flow. The OT is represented as an inflection point on a force-time graph when isometric force is registered and applied through maximal and continuous tests. Endurance time (ET) to exhaustion is influenced by the relative isometric applied force and is different for each climber. The aim of this study was to explore whether an approximation of the finger flexor´s OT in sport climbers through records of ET to exhaustion at different isometric relative intensities was possible. We measured maximum finger hang ETs at 6 intensities ranging from 85% to 35% maximal force in 34 sport climbers of advanced and elite level. The values obtained were analyzed by two different methods in an attempt to determine a change in the shape of the curve in the intensity-ET relationship graphs that approximated the OT for each climber. The results suggest that the finger flexor´s OT could be different among climbers, regardless of their strength and ability level. The presented methods do not accurately reflect the OT, but could indicate the intensity at which blood flow is restored in the active muscles. This is the first study to indirectly approximate the finger flexors OT in sport-climbers, a parameter that could be essential to assess SCE.

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

“…Nonetheless, the temporal behavior of FP exhibited a similar pattern across individuals, suggesting that although the degree of pain experienced varied among them, the majority demonstrated a significant reduction after the first 24 h. Given that delayed-onset muscle soreness, resulting from muscle damage, typically reaches its peak between 48 and 72 h following the stimulus (42) and that FP did not follow the same temporal pattern as HS, it is plausible that the forearm pain is more likely attributed to minor muscle damages and the breakdown of non-contractile muscle structures rather than substantial muscle damage. Previous studies have highlighted that the fascia is more sensitive than muscle following eccentric contractions (43), which could explain the association between pain and reduced performance, as observed in this study and others (40). A possible explanation for the reduction in force production could be the mechanism of muscle fatigue (44).…”

“…That is due to compression of the veins and preserved normal diameter of the arteries (compression-resistant vascular structure), also leading to an imbalance in the concentration of intramuscular and extramuscular fluids, causing the greatest amount of fluid to be found in the intramuscular space, leading to swelling. This phenomenon has already been described within the practice of climbing (40,41).…”

Muscle oxygenation and time to task failure of submaximal holding and pulling isometric muscle actions and influence of intermittent voluntary muscle twitches

“…As generally accepted, isometric muscle actions should restrict the capillary blood flow due to the high intramuscular pressure already at low intensities [ 19 , 20 ]. However, the occlusion threshold might vary between individuals and muscles [ 35 ]. In contrast, auxotonic contractions possibly support oxygen and blood supply due to the reduced muscle tension during the lowering phase.…”

Muscle Oxygenation and Time to Task Failure of Submaximal Holding and Pulling Isometric Muscle Actions and Influence of Intermittent Voluntary Muscle Twitches

“…As generally accepted, IMAs should restrict the capillary blood ow due to the high intramuscular pressure already at low intensities [19,20], but the occlusion threshold might vary between individuals and muscles [31]. In contrast, auxotonic contractions possibly support oxygen and blood supply due to the reduced muscle tension during the lowering phase.…”