The formation of spilling breaking water waves

Duncan, James H.; Philomin, V.; Behres, M.; Kimmel, Jyrki

doi:10.1063/1.868146

Cited by 79 publications

(31 citation statements)

References 9 publications

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“…This shape is similar to that found in gentle short-wavelength spilling breakers (see [10]). The point of maximum upward curvature at the leading edge of the bulge is called the toe.…”

Section: Flow Characteristicssupporting

confidence: 78%

Large-Wave Simulation (LWS) of Free-Surface Flows Developing Weak Spilling Breaking Waves

Dimas¹,

Fialkowski²

2000

Journal of Computational Physics

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“…This shape is similar to that found in gentle short-wavelength spilling breakers (see [10]). The point of maximum upward curvature at the leading edge of the bulge is called the toe.…”

Section: Flow Characteristicssupporting

confidence: 78%

Large-Wave Simulation (LWS) of Free-Surface Flows Developing Weak Spilling Breaking Waves

Dimas¹,

Fialkowski²

2000

Journal of Computational Physics

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“…To examine temporal and spatial variations of water-surface profiles, we used the laser-induced fluorescent (LIF) method. The LIF method has been used to record water-surface variations as early as 1980s (Yeh & Ghazali 1986;Ramsden 1993;Duncan et al 1994), and has significantly improved accuracy due to recent advances in optical devices (e.g. Duncan et al 1999;Gardarsson & Yeh 2007;Diorio, Liu & Duncan 2009).…”

Section: Laboratory Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the Mach reflection of a solitary wave: revisited

Yeh

Kodama

2011

J. Fluid Mech.

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Reflection of an obliquely incident solitary wave at a vertical wall is studied experimentally in the laboratory wave tank. Precision measurements of water-surface variations are achieved with the aid of laser-induced fluorescent (LIF) technique and detailed features of the Mach reflection are captured. During the development stage of the reflection process, the stem wave is not in the form of a Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) soliton but a forced wave, trailing by a continuously broadening depression. Evolution of stem-wave amplification is in good agreement with the Kadomtsev–Petviashvili (KP) theory. The asymptotic characteristics and behaviours are also in agreement with the theory of Miles (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 79, 1977b, p. 171) except those in the neighbourhood of the transition between the Mach reflection and the regular reflection. The predicted maximum fourfold amplification of the stem wave is not realized in the laboratory environment. On the other hand, the laboratory observations are in excellent agreement with the previous numerical results of the higher-order model of Tanaka (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 248, 1993, p. 637). The present laboratory study is the first to sensibly analyse validation of the theory; note that substantial discrepancies exist from previous (both numerical and laboratory) experimental studies. Agreement between experiments and theory can be partially attributed to the large-distance measurements that the precision laboratory apparatus is capable of. More important, to compare the laboratory results with theory, the corrected interaction parameter is derived from proper interpretation of the theory in consideration of the finite incident wave angle. Our laboratory data indicate that the maximum stem wave can reach higher than the maximum solitary wave height. The wave breaking near the wall results in the substantial increase in wave height and slope away from the wall.

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“…At higher wind speeds, radar cross sections are consistent at all fetches but the sonar return at the short fetch is much lower than at long fetch. We interpret this to indicate that parasitic capillaries dominate the scattering from bound waves at short fetches where the dominant wave is short enough to generate them but that other roughness, probably generated by gently spilling or "crumpling" gravity waves (Duncan et al, 1994;Longuet-Higgins, 1992), dominates the bound wave contribution at longer fetches. For this conclusion to be valid, bubble scattering must not significantly affect the sonar backscatter measurements, and bubble scattering was evaluated as follows.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Simultaneous Acoustic/Microwave Data

Dahl¹,

Plant²

2002

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Grant # N00014-98-1-0072 http://airs.apl.washington.edu/personnel/personnel.html LONG-TERM GOALSThe long-range objective of this project is to understand both acoustic and microwave scattering from rough water surfaces sufficiently well to be able to implement them in operational models and, if possible, to remotely sense microscale breaking on the sea surface. SCIENTIFIC OBJECTIVESThe scientific objectives of this research are to apply acoustic and microwave techniques of surface backscatter to investigate the bound and breaking waves that have been shown to exist on rough water surfaces, both in the laboratory and on the ocean. The work is particularly aimed at determining the angular dependence of bound waves and their relationship to microscale breaking waves. APPROACHOur approach is to observe both acoustic and microwave backscattering from wind-roughened water surfaces in wind wave tanks, and to model the surface in a manner that will explain both types of scattering. The acoustic and microwave systems used are fully coherent so that Doppler spectra as well as backscattering cross sections can be obtained. Our wave tank arrangements are designed so that the acoustic and microwave systems both observe the surface at the same incidence angle. We use acoustic and microwave systems whose transmitted wavelengths are within 10% of each other WORK COMPLETEDPrior to 2000, we had carried out measurements in the UW wavetank at 0.8 and 2 cm looking both up and downwind. The results of the measurements at 0.8 cm clearly showed that the backscatter could be explained as Bragg scattering from parasitic capillary waves riding on the front faces of longer waves (Plant et al., 1999a). Scattering from 2 cm waves did not appear to be due to parasitic capillary waves, however.In order to further investigate surface scattering at these two wavelengths, we carried out a series of measurements in the large wind wave tank in Marseilles, France in the summer and fall of 2000.

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The formation of spilling breaking water waves

Cited by 79 publications

References 9 publications

Large-Wave Simulation (LWS) of Free-Surface Flows Developing Weak Spilling Breaking Waves

Large-Wave Simulation (LWS) of Free-Surface Flows Developing Weak Spilling Breaking Waves

On the Mach reflection of a solitary wave: revisited

Analysis of Simultaneous Acoustic/Microwave Data

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