The Influence of Colorism on the Hair Experiences of African American Female Adolescents

Abstract

This article addresses the prevalence of colorism among the hair care narratives of African American female adolescents. Eleven interviews were conducted to explore the connection between hair and sense of self and self-esteem. During data collection and analysis, the theme surrounding colorism emerged, as many participants discussed its influence on hair, recalling traumatic hair and colorist experiences. This article focuses on the analysis of these narratives using the colorist-historical trauma framework. Three themes emerged: (1) colorist experiences; (2) perceptions of good hair; and (3) the influence of White beauty standards. These themes reflect how participants conceptualized the implications of colorism and its impact on their psychosocial and emotional well-being. The article highlights how colorism is embedded in their lived experiences and how participants combated the presence of colorism perpetuated by family, peers, and society, to embrace their identities. The article outlines the implications of collective efforts to decolonize hair and promote healing and liberation through actions such as the natural hair movement, legal efforts to protect hairstyle preferences in schools and the workplace, and overall awareness of the perception of Black women in media. It also discusses shifts in attitudes, perspectives, and beliefs regarding hair among younger generations.

A Scoping Review of Black American Beauty Studies From 1995 to 2022

“…Generational influence on individual relationships to hair was studied in terms of mother-daughter relationships (Wilson et al, 2018) and grandmother-granddaughter relationships (Mbilishaka et al, 2020). Self-esteem was also evaluated in relation to women’s hair practices (Ellis-Hervey et al, 2016) and adolescents in foster care (Mitchell Dove, 2021).…”

“…Beauty standards are powerful constructions to socialize and condition appearance management behavior (Mitchell Dove, 2021). For Black women especially, deciding to wear hair in its natural state can be a critical element of forming their identity in relation to the collective group (Garrin, 2016).…”

“…Beauty standards are a communal endeavor, meaning that external interpretations of beauty influence one's self-assessment of beauty. For Black women, male and female peers, family, institutions, mass media, and employers communicate beauty expectations (Cook, 2006;Kelch-Oliver & Ancis, 2011;Mitchell Dove, 2021;Robinson-Moore, 2005;Selzer, 2006;Tucker, 2000). While most of these messages reflect Eurocentric standards and tend to devalue coarse hair texture and darker skin tones (Tucker, 2000), the culture in which women were raised can provide a positive alternative for how they perceive their beauty (Bruner, 2007).…”

Experiences of and support for black women in ecology, evolution, and marine science

“…WSC also divides Black women. Skin color, hair texture, and body shape are all weaponized against Black women when beauty standards that conform to WSC expectations are valued (Dixon and Telles, 2017;Mitchell Dove, 2021). In efforts to decolonize westernized science organizations, it is of utmost importance for us to treat Black women as individuals and not as a monolith.…”