The Moral Registers of Banqueting in Contemporary China

Abstract

Chinese feasting encompasses everything from life-cycle celebrations to the indulgences of corrupt officials. Although woven into the commodity economy, banqueting also creates and solidifies social relationships, providing a space where different moral economies converge. This article explores the moral economies that intersect in Chinese banqueting as well as the differing moral registers people use to understand it. Proper form in banqueting is essential to being a cultured person and all banqueting gathers meaning through analogy to the commensal sharing at the heart of the family and ritual economy. Lavish official banqueting may be condemned in popular and state discourse as corrupt; yet officials may claim banqueting is necessary work that creates social connections which help their localities. Banquet inflation among ordinary people is also subject to contradictory moral evaluations. While the recent crackdown on official corruption stigmatises banquet indulgence, it may reinforce ordinary people's desire to utilise banquets as one of their only tools to influence those with relatively more power.

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“…Por otro lado, a la hora de salir a cenar, siempre invitaron ellos, y no escatimaron ni en comida ni en bebida. Así y todo, los grandes festines, forma de comensalidad con mayor o menor grado de ritualización, ubicua en la China contemporánea y parte de una larga tradición histórica (Oxfeld, 2020), los presencié en sus hogares, donde me recibieron cálidamente y me hicieron probar un sinfín de platos. Tampoco allí vi que hubiera una cautela en el gasto por la calidad de los ingredientes, ni la cantidad de platos distintos o bebidas.…”