The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers

Baláš, Jiří; Panáčková, Michaela; Kodejška, Jan; Cochrane, Darryl J.; Martin, Jérome

doi:10.1080/24748668.2014.11868726

Cited by 20 publications

(25 citation statements)

References 22 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…(2) Differences in work to relief ratio of intermittent tests are known to alter both CP and W' 20 . 3Hand and arm positions influence climbers force production, positions that involve the hand above the shoulder, and with greater than 90-degree extension of the elbow are known to have greater criterion validity with climbing ability than handgrip dynamometry 13 . Further work is necessary to establish norms of CF and W' data for comparison between ability groups and disciplines, to gain further understanding of the potential mechanisms associated with the fatigue resistance of the finger flexors of climbers.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…All tests were performed in a two-handed half-crimp hang position (90° flexion at the proximal interphalangeal joint [PIP] with the thumb not engaged in the grip). In accordance with Baláš et al 13 , subjects were instructed to hang with arms extended above the head (180° shoulder flexion), maintaining a slight bend in the elbow with shoulders engaged (Figure 2b). To modify the load, weight in 0.5 kg -5 kg increments were either added or removed using a pulley system attached to a climbing harness worn by the subject.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Kellawan and Tschakovsky 10 have previously described a methodology for the determination of CF in the forearms, using grip dynamometry. However, given the lack of specificity of grip dynamometry to climbing performance 12,13 , there is a need for ecologically validated tests within the sport. Determining finger flexor CF would be advantageous in understanding exercise tolerance in climbers, and determining optimal training prescription and monitoring.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Giles¹,

Chidley²,

Taylor³

et al. 2019

International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Purpose: To determine if the mathematical model used for the estimation of critical force (CF) and the energy store component W′ are applicable to intermittent isometric muscle actions of the finger flexors of rock climbers, using a multisession test. As a secondary aim, the agreement of estimates of CF and W′ from a single-session test was also determined. The CF was defined as the slope coefficient, and W′ was the intercept of the linear relationship between total “isometric work” (Wlim) and time to exhaustion (Tlim). Methods: Subjects performed 3 (separated by either 20 min or >24 h) tests to failure using intermittent isometric finger-flexor contractions at 45%, 60%, and 80% of their maximum voluntary contraction. Results: Force plotted against Tlim displayed a hyperbolic relationship; correlation coefficients of the parameter estimates from the work–time CF model were consistently very high (R2 > .94). Climbers’ mean CF was 425.7 (82.8) N (41.0% [6.2%] maximum voluntary contraction) and W′ was 30,882 (11,820) N·s. Good agreement was found between the single-session and multisession protocol for CF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC3,1] = .900; 95% confidence interval, .616–.979), but not for W′ (ICC3,1 = .768; 95% confidence interval, .190–.949). Conclusions: The results demonstrated the sensitivity of a simple test for the determination of CF and W′, using equipment readily available in most climbing gyms. Although further work is still necessary, the test of CF described is of value for understanding exercise tolerance and to determine optimal training prescription to monitor improvements in the performance of the finger flexors.

show abstract

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Giles¹,

Chidley²,

Taylor³

et al. 2019

International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…In order to maximise potential finger flexor activation the participant's arm was placed with 180° shoulder flexion and full elbow extension (Baláš, Panáčková, Kodejška, Cochrane & Martin, 2014). All measurements were undertaken in a seated position, with the shoulder of the tested arm placed vertically under the wooden hold (Fig.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Kodejška¹,

Michailov²,

Baláš³

2016

Auc Kinanthropologica

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Background. Bouldering and lead climbing are divergent disciplines of the sport of rock climbing. Bouldering moves are short and powerful, whilst sport climbing is longer and require a greater degree of endurance.Aim. The aim of this study was to compare forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contraction between lead climbers (LC) and boulderers (BO).Methods. Eight BO and twelve LC completed maximal finger flexor strength test and sustained contractions to exhaustion at 60% of maximum voluntary contraction (MVC).Differences between BO and LC in maximal strength, time to exhaustion, force time integral (FTI), and tissue oxygenation (SmO 2 ) were assessed by t-test for independent samples.Results. LC showed significantly lower level of average tissue oxygenation (BO 38.9% SmO 2 , s = 7.4; LC 28.7% SmO 2 , s = 7.1) and maximal tissue deoxygenation (BO 25.6% SmO 2 , s = 8.2; LC 13.5% SmO 2 , s = 8.5). LC demonstrated significantly lower finger flexor strength (519 N, s = 72) than BO (621 N, s = 142). LC sustained a longer time of contraction (not significantly) (BO 52.2 s, s = 11.5; LC 60.6 s, s = 13) and achieved a similar value of FTI (BO 17421 Ns, s = 4291; LO 17476 Ns, s = 5036) in the endurance test.Conclusions. The results showed lower deoxygenation during sustained contraction in BO than LC despite similar FTI, indicating different local metabolic pathways in both groups.

show abstract

“…Next, the same measurements were made on the non-injured contralateral side in order to calculate the strength deficit percentages for each type of grip. The measurement position followed the indications of Balas et al [19]: sitting down with a 90 • upper trunk flexion, feet kept together on a scale (to verify that there was no impulse against the ground at the time of measurement), and a 180 • shoulder flexion with full extension of the elbow and wrist.…”

Section: Finger Grip Strength Evaluationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries

Iruretagoiena-Urbieta

Zarate

Blasi

et al. 2020

Diagnostics

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The ability of finger flexors to generate force has been studied in relation to climbing performance. However, not much attention has been paid to the decrease in finger grip force in relation to annular pulley injuries. The purpose of the present study was to determine if an injured annular pulley implies a finger flexor force decrease, as well as its relation to clinical and sonographic changes. We performed an observational study in 39 rock climbers with A2 or A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd or 4th fingers. The variables considered were pain upon palpation, ultrasound tendon–bone distance, and finger grip strength decrease. Three rock climbing grip types were considered: the one finger crimp, open crimp, and close crimp. Injured rock climbers presented a decrease in finger grip strength compared to non-injured controls when performing a one finger crimp (p < 0.001). There exists a significant correlation between a tendon–bone distance at the level of the injured pulley and a decreased finger grip strength measured by performing a one finger crimp (p = 0.006). A decrease in finger grip strength could be considered in the diagnostic and follow-up process of A2 and A4 pulley injuries to the 3rd and 4th fingers.

show abstract

The role of arm position during finger flexor strength measurement in sport climbers

Cited by 20 publications

References 22 publications

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

The Determination of Finger-Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers

Forearm muscle oxygenation during sustained isometric contractions in rock climbers

Grip Force Measurement as a Complement to High-Resolution Ultrasound in the Diagnosis and Follow-Up of A2 and A4 Finger Pulley Injuries

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About