The role of topical dermocosmetics in acne vulgaris

Abstract

Acne is a common chronic inflammatory disease and treatment modalities based on acne severity are well established. The role of dermocosmetics in dermatology, and in particular acne, is becoming more important as more research elucidates the mechanisms of action of products in the pathogenesis of acne. Dermocosmetics have the potential to be used as monotherapy or in combination with medical treatment. Therefore, it has become important for dermatologists to understand dermocosmetics to effectively and appropriately advise patients on their use. The objective of this review was to provide new insights into the role of traditional and novel ingredients in dermocosmetics for the treatment of acne, based on the authors' objective assessment of the published literature. The type of products discussed include: those which have a sebostatic effect, such as topical antioxidants and niacinamide; agents targeting abnormal keratinization, such as salicylic acid, lipo-hydroxy acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinol-based products and linoleic acid; agents targeting Propionibacterium acnes, such as lauric acid; and anti-inflammatory agents such as nicotinamide, alpha-linolenic acid and zinc salts. Despite the scientific advances in understanding these cosmetic ingredients, there still remains a lack of rigorous controlled studies in this area.

An extension of a multicenter, randomized, split‐face clinical trial evaluating the efficacy and safety of chromophore gel‐assisted blue light phototherapy for the treatment of acne

“…However, the safety and efficacy profiles of all these therapies is often considered as problematic, and several studies demonstrated that these treatments are not capable of affecting all etiological factors involved in acne pathogenesis . Therefore, there is an urgent need to further develop alternative and innovative treatments, such as light, laser, and photodynamic therapies (PDT) . Light and laser therapy for the treatment of acne vulgaris is based on the observation that P. acnes synthesizes chromophores such as porphyrins, more specifically, coproporphyrin .…”

“…4,5 Therefore, there is an urgent need to further develop alternative and innovative treatments, such as light, laser, and photodynamic therapies (PDT). [6][7][8][9] Light and laser therapy for the treatment of acne vulgaris is based on the observation that P. acnes synthesizes chromophores such as porphyrins, more specifically, coproporphyrin. [10][11][12] Porphyrins enable light therapy to exert a selective cytotoxic effect on P. acnes.…”

Evaluation of Sebostatic Activity of Juniperus communis Fruit Oil and Pelargonium graveolens Oil Compared to Niacinamide

“…Cosmetics for oily skin should have multi-directional effects, such as: sebostatic (inhibition of excessive amounts of sebum), bacteriostatic (limiting the growth of bacteria Propionibacterium acnes), inhibition of the oxidation of lipids, soothing irritations (skin irritation increases seborrhoea), keratolytic action, and a mattifying effect (absorbing sebum from the surface) [11].…”

“…Vitamin B3 is used in the treatment of various skin diseases because it regulates moisture, exfoliates the skin, and eliminates inflammation. Niacinamide reduces the excessive production of sebum and reduces the size of the pores of the skin [11][12][13].…”

Acne-Associated Syndromes

“…Four main pathways are described in acne pathogenesis: increased sebum production, abnormal keratinization, Propionibacterium acnes colonization, and inlammation [2]. Acne is a multifactorial disease and sometimes associated with systemic disorders.…”