The solution of the long-wave equation for various nonlinear depth and breadth profiles in the power-law form

Bayındır, Cihan; Farazande, Sofi

doi:10.1016/j.dynatmoce.2021.101254

Cited by 3 publications

(1 citation statement)

References 33 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Its accurate representation by numerical models depends on the scales in space and time over which the interplay between various codependent processes is to be taken into consideration. General discussion and valuable insights on the topic can be found in [19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26]. Regardless, though, the fundamentals of coastal morphodynamics lie in a beach profile's response to wave action.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simulating Erosive and Accretive Conditions in the Swash: Applications of a Nonlinear Wave and Morphology Evolution Model

Samaras,

Karambas

2024

JMSE

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

This work presents a new model for surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. Wave transformation in the surf and swash zones is computed by a nonlinear wave model based on the higher order Boussinesq equations for breaking and non-breaking waves. Regarding sediment transport, the model builds on previous research by the authors and incorporates the latest update of a well-founded sediment transport formula. The wave and morphology evolution model is validated against two sets of experiments on beach profile change and is afterwards used to test the performance of a widely-adopted erosion/accretion criterion. The innovation of this work is the validation of a new Boussinesq-type morphology model under both erosive and accretive conditions at the foreshore (accretion is rarely examined in similar studies), which the model reproduces very well without modification of the empirical coefficients of the sediment transport formula used; furthermore, the model confirms the empirical erosion/accretion criterion even for conditions beyond the ones it was developed for and without imposing any model constraints. The presented set of applications highlights model capabilities in simulating swash morphodynamics, as well as its suitability for coastal erosion mitigation and beach restoration design

show abstract