The study of sewing damage and defects in garments

Choudhary, A. K.; Sikka, Monica Puri; Bansal, Payal

doi:10.1108/rjta-08-2017-0041

Cited by 16 publications

(21 citation statements)

References 30 publications

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“…Seam slippage can also occur because of the stress location of a garment, thread type and properties, sewing needle, stitch type, stitch density, seam type and sewing machine condition. Flexibility of the fabric is affected seam slippage too [12,21].…”

Section: Seam Slippagementioning

confidence: 99%

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Seam Performance of Garments

Gürarda¹

2019

Textile Manufacturing Processes

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Seams are basic requirements in the manufacturing of garments. In general, seam performance has a great influence on the garment quality. Seam and stitch types affect the quality and appearance of garments. Seams of the garment must be durable and smooth. Stitch and seam types and stitch and seam parameters should be selected according to the garment and fabric type. Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters, seam defects and damages. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. In this study, the importance of the seam performance of garments is investigated. In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. However, the stitch and seam parameters, sewing needle penetration force, needle damage index, seam defects and damages that are effective at seam performance have been explained and their relations with each other are compared.

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Section: Seam Slippagementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Seam damages are caused when fabric restricts the penetration of the sewing needle. This not only depends upon the spaces in the fabric, but also on needle profile, needle size, sewing machine setting and sewing thread [21,25]. Fabric structure has an important effect on seam damages too [26].…”

Section: Seam Damagesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Seam Performance of Garments

Gürarda¹

2019

Textile Manufacturing Processes

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“…For instance, cotton fabric cannot be used as cold-weather apparel. The selection of the right raw materials not only comforts the wearer, but also leads to defectfree clothing as it smooths out the manufacturing process [2][3][4][5]. The other factor is maintaining the right parameters during the processing, like stitch density, sewing speed, stitch types, seam types, etc.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Seam Strength Prediction for Different Stitch Types Considering Stitch Density of Cotton Woven Fabrics

Islam¹,

Hossain²,

Repon³

et al. 2022

TLR

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Seam strength is critical in achieving the proper and adequate quality seam, which eventually determines the overall quality of any garment. The target of this research was to investigate exactly how different stitch density affected seam strength for different stitch types. Commercially available, 100% cotton plain weave structured woven fabric with mass per unit area of 270 g/m2 was used in this analysis. Two different stitch types, such as lock stitch (ISO#301) and chain stitch (ISO#401), along with four stitch densities like 8, 10, 12 and 14 per inch were utilized. The seam strength of the prepared samples was determined using a tensile strength tester followed by the ASTM D1683 standard procedure. The impact of independent variables on superimposed seam strength was statistically analyzed using a regression correlation with the help of SPSS software to construct a regression equation to predict seam strength before the manufacturing process. The study found a non-linear relationship between seam strength and stitch density. When the stitch density is too low, the seam strength is shown low as well, because the cloth cannot be held under tensile load. In a very compact woven fabric, structural jamming or intrinsic puckering occurs if it is too high. As a result, the best stitch density should be chosen to achieve the best seam strength. This study will help the manufacturers choose a suitable SPI for lock and chain stitches from polynomial regression equations before the sewing production of cotton woven fabric, which was not predicted by any researcher before. Therefore, the optimum stitch density can be chosen using regression equations to get the best result for seam strength.

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“…Stjepanovic and Strah (1998) proposed an expert system for the selection of a suitable sewing needle with the application of machine learning. Choudhary et al. (2018) defined the dominating factors (such as fibre, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle, and machine parameters) that affect the sewing damages and causing defects.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A novel method of identifying sewing damage in single jersey fabrics

Yildiz

Pamuk

2022

IJCST

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PurposeThis paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method.Design/methodology/approachSix knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically.FindingsThe results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage.Originality/valueA review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.

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The study of sewing damage and defects in garments

Cited by 16 publications

References 30 publications

Seam Performance of Garments

Seam Performance of Garments

Seam Strength Prediction for Different Stitch Types Considering Stitch Density of Cotton Woven Fabrics

A novel method of identifying sewing damage in single jersey fabrics

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