The usefulness of a dermocosmetic containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid for maintenance phase of adult female acne: Results from a randomized exploratory investigator‐blinded comparative study

Abstract

Background Acne is a very common condition. Currently, there are relatively few studies available to help guidance‐based decisions for its long‐term management, especially studies with cosmetic care products. We have developed a skin care product dedicated to adult female acne. Objectives Evaluate the efficacy and tolerance of the test product containing Myrtus communis extract and azelaic acid compared with a light moisturizing cream (LCM) in adult females in the acne maintenance phase. Methods A clinical study was conducted as a Brazilian, multicentre, randomized, investigator‐blinded trial in adult females with clear or almost clear facial acne after anti‐acne treatment. The test group (26 subjects) applied the test product and the comparative product group (27 subjects) applied LCM. Both groups applied the products twice daily on the whole face. Subjects were evaluated every 4 weeks over 16 weeks. Efficacy was evaluated according to acne relapse; Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA); acne lesions counting; AcneQoL questionnaire; Subject Global change Assessment (SGA) of acne severity; and the number of Post‐Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) and Post‐Inflammatory Erythema (PIE) lesions. Tolerance was assessed according to a 5‐point scale. Results Over 16 weeks, the number of acne relapse was more than double in the comparator compared to the test product group (eight subjects vs. three subjects respectively). There was no statistical difference in the evolution of the mean IGA from baseline between the two groups; however, 85% of subjects were assessed as clear or almost clear in the test product group and 67% in the comparative group. Conclusions This study demonstrated the effectiveness topical application of the test product compared to LCM on acne severity in the maintenance phase of adult female acne. Efficacy results after 16 weeks suggested a trend to limit acne relapses and a benefit of the test product in maintaining long‐term remission.

Acne microbiome: From phyla to phylotypes

“…Dermocosmetic that included an ethanolic extract of myrtle leaves has been shown to reduce C. acnes biofilm and maintain acne clearance in a greater proportion of adult females compared to a control cream (85% vs. 67%, respectively). 53 Similarly, a separate dermocosmetic based on thermal water showed a marked antibiofilm activity on both C. acnes and S. aureus. 54 In 2021, Hwang et al 55 reported that daily use of a moisturizer for 4 weeks (n = 25 women) increased bacterial diversity, considered a marker of healthy skin.…”

“…While the studies evaluating the effects of dermocosmetics on the microbiome and barrier in acne are currently sparse, some examples are presented here. Dermocosmetic that included an ethanolic extract of myrtle leaves has been shown to reduce C. acnes biofilm and maintain acne clearance in a greater proportion of adult females compared to a control cream (85% vs. 67%, respectively) 53 . Similarly, a separate dermocosmetic based on thermal water showed a marked antibiofilm activity on both C. acnes and S. aureus 54 .…”

Unveiling the Nuances of Adult Female Acne: A Comprehensive Exploration of Epidemiology, Treatment Modalities, Dermocosmetics, and the Menopausal Influence

“…In a multicenter, randomized, investigator-blinded trial, the efficacy and safety of this test product in acne maintenance phase was compared versus light moisturizing cream (LCM) in 26 test and 27 control subjects, respectively. 87 The products were applied twice daily on the whole face, for a study duration of 16 weeks, with subjects evaluated every 4 weeks. The efficacy was evaluated by means of the number of acne relapses and the investigator’s global assessment (IGA).…”

“…According to the authors, these efficacy results after a 16-week trial period suggested a trend towards acne relapse limitation by the test product, along with a benefit in maintaining long-term remission. 87 …”

Prevalence and biological characteristics of acne in adult women employees of a university

“…Additionally, there is a lower diversity of C. acnes in acne prone skin. The interaction between skin and gut microbiome has also been considered to influence acne development and persistence, opening perspectives toward the use of probiotic therapies to reverse the dysbiosis presented in these patients (Rocha, 2018b;Rueda, 2021;Bagatin, 2023).…”