The Visual Presentation of Beauty in Transnational Fashion Magazine Advertisements

Fowler, Jie G.; Carlson, Les

doi:10.1080/10641734.2015.1023872

Cited by 13 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 52 publications

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“…This finding is consistent with the previous literature on representations of race in both mainstream fashion magazines and textbook in other disciplines. Scholars examining mainstream fashion magazines such as Vogue, Glamour, Cosmopolitan, and many others consistently found that there were significantly more White individuals represented than any other race between the 1980s and 2010s (Baker, 2005;Frith et al, 2004;Fowler & Carlson, 2015;Jackson & Ervin, 1991;Jung & Lee, 2009;Mayo et al, 2005;Millard & Grant, 2006;Wasylkiw et al, 2009). In a more recent analysis by Fashionista, the news media outlet also highlighted this trend in mainstream fashion magazine covers where women of colour were represented significantly less than White women (Kim, 2015).…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Likewise, Jung and Lee (2009) studied Glamour, Vogue, and Elle from 2005 and found the majority of advertisements featured White models, while Blacks were represented in 4.5% of the images and Asians in 1.2%. Finally, studies performed on mainstream fashion magazines from 2007 and 2011 found that the majority of models were White (91% and 83%, respectively) (Fowler & Carlson, 2015;Wasylkiw, Emms, Meuse, & Poirier, 2009). Outside of academe, one of the prominent fashion news outlets Fashionista also highlighted the lack of diversity, reporting that magazine covers of 10 different top-selling magazines in 2015 featured women of colour only 19.8% of the time (Kim, 2015).…”

Section: Representations Of Race In Magazines and Textbooksmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…She continued to describe that European features included 'fair skin, straight hair, and a thin figure' (p. 19), and there were no descriptors for African-like features in the 'Categories and Coding' section (p. 18). Fowler and Carlson (2015), Wasylkiw et al (2009), Millard and Grant (2006), Knobloch-Westerwick and Coates (2006), and Frith et al (2004) all coded race, yet did not give specific codebook definitions. Hogben and Waterman (1997) coded race and explained the difficulty in this task stating, 'broad gradations such as Asian and White are primarily based on observable and superficial characteristics' (p. 95).…”

Section: Coding Categoriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body

Reddy-Best

Kane

Harmon

et al. 2017

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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The purpose of the study was to critically analyse the images in fashion design and apparel product development textbooks to determine if they reflect a lack of diversity in fashion magazine, the fashion industry, and other college textbook images. While using intersectionality theory and a feminist lens as our frameworks, we critically analysed these texts for representations of race, body size, and body position. We used visual content analysis to examine 3124 images of women in books published since 2000. Each woman in the text was coded in three categories including race, body size, and body position. The findings from our study highlight the need for more diversity within the discipline's textbooks. Future studies should examine representations of men and textbooks from other areas in the field such as textile science or dress history.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Representations Of Race In Magazines and Textbooksmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Coding Categoriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body

Reddy-Best

Kane

Harmon

et al. 2017

International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Educati

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“…A minority group within the context of race in UK is BAME, which is used in the UK to refer to people who are not white, predominantly British English African and Afro Caribbean, Asian and minority ethnic groups. Even as Fowler & Carlson (2015) noted that ethnicity of the models plays a crucial role in the advertisement display, the following hypothesis is proposed:…”

Section: Literature Reviewmentioning

confidence: 99%

Content Analysis of Female Athlete Endorsers in UK Sports Magazine Advertisements.

Mogaji

2019

SSRN Journal

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Despite an increased level of females' participation in sports, the media coverage is still very low and inadvertently the use of female athletes as product endorsers has received limited attention. The purpose of this study is to provide an empirical insight into the frequency and nature of portrayals of female athlete endorsers in UK Sports Magazine by replicating Grau et al (2007)'s earlier study carried out in USA over ten years ago. Results of the content analysis indicate that females are seldomly featured as brand endorsers, female in team sports and from black ethnic minority group are less likely to be featured as brand endorsers. The study offers theoretical knowledge and practical implication for managers to ensure female athletes are well positioned and given the opportunity to be commercially viable.

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“…Studies examining fashion magazines reported a significant lack of racial diversity (Fowler & Carlson, 2015;Mayo, Mayo, & Mahdi, 2005) and a higher number of women than men in stereotypical or passive positions (Stankiewicz & Rosselli, 2008). Sypeck, Gray, and Ahrens (2004) found a decrease in body size from the 1980s to the 1990s in magazines, while Luff and Gray (2009) found an increase in the body size of models from 1956 to 2005.…”

mentioning

confidence: 94%

A Critical Lens on Drawing the Body: Intersections of Gender, Race, and Size in Fashion Illustration Textbooks

Reddy-Best

Gagliardi

2016

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Scholars have extensively studied representations of race, gender, body, and size in visual imagery circulating in the fashion system. Studies examining fashion magazines reported a significant lack of racial diversity (Fowler & Carlson, 2015;Mayo, Mayo, & Mahdi, 2005) and a higher number of women than men in stereotypical or passive positions (Stankiewicz & Rosselli, 2008). Sypeck, Gray, and Ahrens (2004) found a decrease in body size from the 1980s to the 1990s in magazines, while Luff and Gray (2009) found an increase in the body size of models from 1956 to 2005. Scholars looking more critically at people of color found more light-skinned than dark-skinned models in Ebony magazine, a publication targeted towards African American women (Keenan, 1996); however, Mayo, Mayo, & Mahdi (2005) analyzed Vogue, and found nearly half of the ads featuring African Americans were dark-skinned women.We argue that textbooks in the textile and apparel discipline are a part of an extension of the fashion system in that the future fashion and beauty producers (i.e. fashion students) utilize theses texts throughout the formative years of their college education. Reddy-Best and Kane (2015) were the first to critically analyze design and merchandising textbooks, and found a majority of White individuals, more women in passive positions than men, and an increase in women's body sizes over time. Our study extends Reddy-Best and Kane's (2015) study and examines representations of gender, race, and the body in fashion illustration textbooks in the 21 st century, as they did not examine these texts in their sample. We asked (a) what body sizes are present?, (b) do the illustrations have diverse racial representation?, (c) and how are bodies positioned?. This study is informed by intersectionality theory, in that we are critically examining multiple subject positions (race, gender, body size) in relation to systems of oppression or discrimination (Shields, 2008). Intersectionality theory informed our research questions, the coding categories, and our analysis of the data.We used the visual content analysis method, and examined 14 books published between 2006 and 2013. In total, we coded 3622 individuals in seven categories: gender (man, woman, or gender neutral), race (Black, White, Asian, other person of color, or indistinguishable) skin color (1-10), hair texture of Black people (straight, natural, dreadlocks, braids, or bald), body size (1-9), body position (open, closed off, active, mixed, or neutral), eye gaze (at self, at another model, at reader, at unknown, at activity, or none), and provocative (yes or no). We coded skin tone using the NIS Skin Color Scale where 1 was the lightest and 10 was the darkest. Body size was determined using a visual body scale from 1-9, where 1 was the smallest and 9 was the largest, and eye gaze was coded using an adaption of Goffman's (1979) scale. We created a codebook and continually refined each code as the coding process unfolded. An intercoder reliability of 92% was reached after we coded 20%-...

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The Visual Presentation of Beauty in Transnational Fashion Magazine Advertisements

Cited by 13 publications

References 52 publications

Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body

Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body

Content Analysis of Female Athlete Endorsers in UK Sports Magazine Advertisements.

A Critical Lens on Drawing the Body: Intersections of Gender, Race, and Size in Fashion Illustration Textbooks

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