The Volumetric Analysis of the Human Body as Starting Point for Clothing Pattern Design

Abstract

The paper presents evaluation of the overall and microclimatic volume changes due to different upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel. The study was performed in order to evaluate the needed ease allowance added to chest and waist circumference for outerwear garments in order to fully achieve the wearing comfort. The accurate 3D body scanning was used and the impact of the upper limb position on microclimatic volume distribution was tested. The scanning data process was performed using a 3D laser scanner and a computer analysis. The raw scans were processed and reconstructed. After the scan reconstruction, the volume and the area were calculated. The experimental study covered the objective measuring methods: the material testing, the 3D scanning, the scan reverse engineering modelling and the volume/area calculation. The volume calculations included both the overall volume calculation for the unclothed torso and for the torso dressed in the chosen outerwear jacket. It also included the volume calculation of an air layer formed between second and third-layered garments. The clothing ensemble CE 0 is the control variable, the unclothed body. The CE 1 is the clothing ensemble combined from the underlying basic garments (undershirt, underpants, classical male business shirt, and jeans) and combined with the bomber jacket. The three human subjects with the analogous body proportions (the height of 185 cm and chest girth of 100 cm) were scanned using the 3D laser body scanner Vitus Smart (Human Solutions GmbH) in an upright standing position according to ISO 20685:2010 changing only upper limb positions simulating functional reaching movements for the aircrew personnel.

A clothing pattern generating framework based on scanned human body model

“…Cloth pattern making is an important work in the fashion industry, and many researchers and engineers has implemented and developed CAD systems (Petrak et al ., 2018; Berthouzoz et al ., 2013; Tama et al ., 2016; Liu et al ., 2018; Bartle et al ., 2016; Stein et al ., 2018). Abu (2012) developed a system of resizable outerwear templates for virtual design and pattern flattening, to implement a computer-aided 3D to 2D pattern development technique for outerwear.…”

“…To satisfy the requirements of personalized customization and self-service virtual fitting applications, automatic and fast generating of characterized clothing patterns according to different body models is significant. Furthermore, because the materials of clothes are soft and extensible in different degree, thus many factors including loose quantity, sewing allowance, structural deformations and customer preference need to be considered in clothing engineering (Petrak et al ., 2018; Berthouzoz et al ., 2013; Tama et al ., 2016; Liu et al ., 2018; Bartle et al ., 2016).…”

The current status on 3D scanning and CAD/CAM applications in textile research

“…Even the most precise 3D CAD tools for the scan modelling and scan reconstruction cope with inability to precisely reconstruct draping properties of fabrics and gain realistic draping simulation, while the garments are worn over the human body flexed in different postures. Although the 3D scanners provide accurate and detailed geometric data from real-world objects, they are restricted to producing a discrete representation due to irregularity, discontinuity, huge data set size and missing areas (Petrak et al, 2018). The 3D flattening method provides much needed realistic approach in constructing and validating the 3D garment model.…”

“…The main disadvantage of performing time-consuming manual reconstruction should be improved in order to create automatically restored scans based on the actual material properties and body postures. The complex geometry of dressed human body makes the process lengthy and complicated (Petrak et al, 2018).…”