The wadic project: A comprehensive field evaluation of directional wave instrumentation

Allender, J.H.; Audunson, T.; Barstow, Stephen F.; Bjerken, S.; Krogstad, Harald E.; Steinbakke, P.; Vartdal, L.; Borgman, Leon E.; Graham, C. H.

doi:10.1016/0029-8018(89)90050-4

Cited by 97 publications

(55 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…However, they are insufficient to estimate spectral properties at smaller scales. Presently, at such scales, field measurements for estimating directional wave spectra are challenging or inaccurate even if one could employ linear or two-dimensional wave probe-type arrays, which are expensive to install and maintain (Allender et al, 1989;O'Reilly et al, 1996).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Benetazzo

Fedele

Gallego

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering

116

104

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Stereo video techniques are effective for estimating the space-time wave dynamics over an area of the ocean. Indeed, a stereo camera view allows retrieval of both spatial and temporal data whose statistical content is richer than that of time series data retrieved from point wave probes. To prove this, we consider an application of the Wave Acquisition Stereo System (WASS) for the analysis of offshore video measurements of gravity waves in the Northern Adriatic Sea. In particular, we deployed WASS at the oceanographic platform Acqua Alta, off the Venice coast, Italy. Three experimental studies were performed, and the overlapping field of view of the acquired stereo images covered an area of approximately 1100 m 2 . Analysis of the WASS measurements show that the sea surface can be accurately estimated in space and time together, yielding associated directional spectra and wave statistics that agree well with theoretical models. From the observed wavenumber-frequency spectrum one can also predict the vertical profile of the current flow underneath the wave surface. Finally, future improvements of WASS and applications are discussed.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Benetazzo

Fedele

Gallego

et al. 2012

Coastal Engineering

116

104

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“…Analysis of raw data is based on the so called 'stochastic model' [2]. In this approach, the sea surface elevation is considered to be a Gaussian random variable (linear model).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Method for the Separation of Wind Generated and Traveling Waves in Coastal Zones and its Use in Wave Height Prediction

Vlachos

2005

Appl. Num. Anal. Comp. Math.

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The most widely used and accepted method of studying wind generated waves is an examination of the spectra at a single point. This approach is based mostly on the assumption that recorded time series of the surface elevation, pressure or velocities are the results of linear superposition of small amplitude oscillations regardless of their directions of propagation. In this work, the vertical and horizontal accelerations of a floating buoy have been used in order to calculate the directional wave spectra in coastal zones. The method used is a parametric one, which incorporates two waves propagating in different directions. The resulting splitting of the incoming waves into two main directions is used for 24-hours wave height prediction with an adaptive neural network.

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“…The software provided by ENDECO uses the tilt information to compute directional spread and a mean direction for each frequency component. An earlier model of the ENDECO buoy was compared with other instruments by Allender et al (1989) who found ENDECO's estimates of directional spread to be unrealistic. Given this uncertainty we have chosen to ignore the directional spread measurements and use only the mean direction.…”

Section: The Endeco Buoy and Data Processingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave climate of the western Bay of Plenty, New Zealand, 1991–93

Macky

Latimer

Smith

1995

New Zealand Journal of Marine and Freshwater Research

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Wave measurements were made for 3 years from a buoy moored in 34 m water depth off the Katikati inlet in the western Bay of Plenty, New Zealand. The significant wave heights were less than 1 m for 70% of the time, with a mean of 0.8 m, and a maximum of 4.3 m. The peak in the spectral density occurred each year at 0.09-0.10 Hz (10-11 s period). Wave steepness suggests that many of the measured waves originated close to the buoy. The year-to-year uniformity in averaged spectral density masks considerable short-term variability although there is some evidence of higher wave energy in winter. Most wave energy arrived from the north-east to east sector. Calculations of the longshore wave energy flux factor suggest that the direction of littoral drift fluctuates frequently, but during the 3 years studied there was a small nett drift in a north-west direction. Significantly less wave energy was measured at Katikati than in previous studies at Great Barrier Island and Hicks Bay. Our Katikati wave data may not be typical of the long-term climate, because they were obtained in El Nino conditions when fewer storms occur. M94062

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The wadic project: A comprehensive field evaluation of directional wave instrumentation

Cited by 97 publications

References 3 publications

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves

A Method for the Separation of Wind Generated and Traveling Waves in Coastal Zones and its Use in Wave Height Prediction

Wave climate of the western Bay of Plenty, New Zealand, 1991–93

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