Transformation of Surges

Murota, Akira; Iwata, Koichiro

doi:10.2208/jscej1949.1968.160_49

Cited by 7 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 10 publications

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“…Have Attenuation, Using "Bore-ApproaChll Murota (1966) presented theoretica 1 and experimenta1 results on the transformation of surges. His paper deals with the transient deformation of surges (bores) in open channel.~, In several estuaries and tidal rivers the rising tide during its upward propagation develops into a sudden jump of thewater surface.…”

Section: ·89mentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

Gerritsen¹

1980

Coastal Engineering 1980

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"Se ti vien di trattare deU 'acqua, "If you wish to study water, first introduce experience and then the reason of things." Leonardo ABSTRACTThis study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up.It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions for coasta1 structures.A1though the prob1em is three-dimensiona1 in nature considerations here are 1imited to two-dimensiona1 conditions.The study consists of a review of existing 1iterature, further deve10p-ment of theoretica1 concepts, a field study and a hydrau1ic model study.Chapter 1 is an introduction. It gives a short description of the hydrodynamic processes associated with waves breaking on a reef and it describes the goals and scope of investigations.Chapter 2 contains a discussion of some relevant aspects of non1inear waves. The distinction followed by vlhitham(1974), who distinguishes two main classes of waves as hyperbo1ic waves and dispersive waves, is followed. Of particular re1evance is the concept of group velocity in nonlinear waves as an element for the computation of energy flux in both field and model experiments.Chapter 3 is devoted to the significant part bottom friction p1ays in wave dissipation over a shallow reef. The starting point of discussion is the bottom friction in linear waves. The bottom friction coefficient appears to be a function of both the wave Reynolds number and the relative roughness of the bottom. The effect of nonlinearity on bottom friction is eva1uated by considering bottom friction 10sses for a solitary wave and by evaluating the effects of shoa1ing, breaking, and currents on the bottom friction coefficient.The various aspects of energy dissipation in breaking waves are discussed in Chapter 4. After a general discussion of the behavior of waves before and after breaking, the simi1arity between energy dissipation in a breaking wave and in a bore is considered in more detail. This simi1arity is used to define a breaking 10ss parameter ç, the value of which has been eva1uated in this study from both field and model data. It appears that the proposed parameter is a usefu1 concept in the evaluation of energy 10sses from wave breaking.Chapters 5 and 6 deal with aspects prob1em is treated as a stationary one. stresses required for the determination aspects are also considered. Chapter 6 lating wave train on the wave set-up on of wave set-up. In Chapter 5 the In the eva1uation of radiation of the wave set-up, non1inear deals with the effects of a moduthe reef.i

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Section: ·89mentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

Gerritsen¹

1980

Coastal Engineering 1980

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“…The Guidelines for Tsunami-Resistant Design of Breakwaters (MLIT, 2013) suggests that WDW may reduce impulsive wave forces of a tsunami with soliton fission. Murota and Iwata (1968) theoretically explained soliton fission as the dispersion mechanism from an ideal bore. Relating to tsunami disaster prevention, Iwasaki et al (1977Iwasaki et al ( , 1978 investigated the tsunami deformation process of both generation and propagation in the near-coast offshore region.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Estimation of Tsunami Force Acting on the Block Armored Breakwater Due to Soliton Fission

Maruyama¹,

Takayama

Shimosako

et al. 2017

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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A series of hydraulic model experiments were performed to verify the effect of armoring concrete blocks on tsunami pressure reduction in a state of soliton fission. Applicable ranges for the Tanimoto and modified Tanimoto formulas for wave pressures acting on a caisson have been determined in terms of the ratio of tsunami height to water depth. An estimation formula for the tsunami pressure reduction factor of the armoring blocks was proposed as a result of a comparison of tsunami force between the states without and with the armoring blocks. The calculated tsunami forces acting on a caisson armored with blocks agreed well with the corresponding experimental ones. Sufficient stability of the armoring blocks against tsunamis was also confirmed by the experiments.

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On a Dam-Break Flow in a Channel of Constant Water Depth

Matsutomi

1985

Doboku Gakkai Ronbunshu

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Transformation of Surges

Cited by 7 publications

References 10 publications

Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

Estimation of Tsunami Force Acting on the Block Armored Breakwater Due to Soliton Fission

On a Dam-Break Flow in a Channel of Constant Water Depth

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