(Un)Sustainable transitions towards fast and ultra-fast fashion

Abstract

Due to pressing sustainability challenges, the fashion industry is undergoing tremendous change. Surprisingly, even though the unique context of fashion presents an opportunity for scholars to explore the (un)sustainable transitions, this context has yet to receive the attention of transition scholars. Our article explores fashion transitions and develops a conceptual framework demonstrating this transition's multi-level and multi-dimensional interactions. We draw on three literature areas: multi-level perspective (MLP) of sustainable transitions, institutional logics and framing contests. We then introduce a conceptual framework and illustrative examples from the industry and demonstrate the tensions between positive and negative environmental and social sustainability developments at the niche, regime and landscape levels. We show that while many positive developments can be seen in the regime players through the adoption of corporate sustainability initiatives, new business models and collaborations, more attention should also be given to some adverse developments. Overall, we contribute to the literature by exploring fashion transitions, an under-explored context, and by demonstrating the complexity of interactions due to the diffusion of heterogeneous institutional logics and framing contests between players.

Practice theory approach to Gen Z’s sustainable clothing consumption in Finland

“…In recent years, ultra-fast fashion, associated with the Chinese giant Shein, has started taking over among young consumers and caught the attention of the media (Mahmood, 2022; Dzhengiz et al , 2023). Shein is alarmingly cheap and produces new outfits at a higher pace than fast fashion brands (Mahmood, 2022).…”

“…The consumer's perspective has been acknowledged by scholars as undervalued but critical in the transition to a sustainable future (Korsunova-Tsaruk et al , 2021; Niinimäki, 2021). Consumers play a tremendous role in transition to sustainable fashion (Dzhengiz et al , 2023). Young consumers are important change agents for sustainability transformation (Korsunova-Tsaruk et al , 2021).…”

Circular Textiles – Methods and Results of an Application Test in the Business-to-Business Sector

“…Beton et al [6], Ellen MacArthur Foundation [3] as well as Manshoven et al [11]. Charter et al [12], Duhoux et al [13] focused on creative and design issues, and Dzhengiz et al [14], Niinimäki et al [15] analysed the impact of fashion trends. There have been studies on longevity by Cooper el al.…”

“…Europe, for example, is the second-largest market worldwide for workwear after the USA [45] (p. 11). For Europe, the market volume in 2022 is estimated at € 8.8 billion and further growth by more than 45% is expected until 2028 14 . The share of workwear as a proportion of the total EU textile market was estimated at around 5% for 2015 [45] (p. 13).…”

Sustainability transformation in the textile industry—The case of wastewater management

“…Previous research on sustainability transformations in the textile industry (e.g., Beyers et al, 2023) has taken a broad perspective of governance and stakeholder actions according to the overall sustainability challenges in the textile industry. For example, the multi-level perspective has been applied to conceptualise how shifts in the industry occur (Dzhengiz et al, 2023), which suggests that sustainability practices in the industry can become widely established through innovation diffusion and the widespread adoption of new practices. Additionally, research has considered how stakeholders can exert institutional pressure on companies to drive sustainability activity.…”