Validation of an in vivo extraction method for human stratum corneum ceramides

Lavrijsen, A.P.M.; Higounenc, I; Weerheim, Arij; Oestmann, Elsbeth; Tuinenburg, E. E.; Boddé, Harry E.; Ponec, Maria

doi:10.1007/bf00371579

Cited by 43 publications

(27 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…However, since toxic reactions, as evidenced by epidermal necrosis, may occur [22], this approach may not be suitable for direct use on human skin in vivo. In the present study, ethanol was used for skin surface lipid extraction, since it is known to induce only little to none skin toxicity and has much lower skin irritant properties than stronger organic solvents, as detected by measurement of skin blood flow, erythema or edema induction [23,24].…”

Section: Skin Lipid Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Vitamin E Delivery to Human Skin by a Rinse-Off Product: Penetration of α-Tocopherol versus Wash-Out Effects of Skin Surface Lipids

Ekanayake‐Mudiyanselage

Tavakkol

Polefka

et al. 2004

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

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α-Tocopherol, the major biologically active form of vitamin E, represents a frequently added lipophilic compound of skin care products. Despite its emerging use in rinse-off formulations, little is known on its efficacy with respect to its deposition or its antioxidant potential in human skin. The objective of this study was to investigate whether the single use of an α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product provides effective deposition of α-tocopherol on human stratum corneum. To test this, forearm skin of 13 volunteers was washed either with an α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off product (test product, TP) or with an α-tocopherol-free vehicle control (control product, CP) (contralateral arm) using a standardized wash protocol. Thereafter, skin surface lipids were extracted with pure ethanol after the wash procedure as well as after 24 h. Additionally, one group of volunteers was subjected to irradiation of their forearms with low-dose UVA (8 J/cm²) prior to lipid extraction. Skin lipid extracts were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography using electrochemical detection for vitamin E and UV detection for squalene (SQ) and squalene monohydroperoxide. The results of this in vivo study demonstrated that (1) while CP treatment lowers, TP treatment strongly increases α-tocopherol levels of skin barrier lipids; (2) increased vitamin E deposition levels were maintained for a period of at least 24 h, and (3) TP treatment significantly inhibited photooxidation of SQ. In conclusion, the use of α-tocopherol-enriched rinse-off products may help to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier by providing protection against photooxidative stress at the level of skin surface lipids.

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Section: Skin Lipid Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Vitamin E Delivery to Human Skin by a Rinse-Off Product: Penetration of α-Tocopherol versus Wash-Out Effects of Skin Surface Lipids

Ekanayake‐Mudiyanselage

Tavakkol

Polefka

et al. 2004

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

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“…This may tremendously influence the results. According to the nature of the solvent, fractions of epidermal lipids are extracted as well [26,27]. Moreover, repetitive applications of solvents alter the stratum corneum structure and skin physiology, and this interfere with the validity of the experimental design [28].…”

Section: Solvent Extractionmentioning

confidence: 99%

EEMCO Guidance for the in vivo Assessment of Skin Greasiness

Pierard

Piérard-Franchimont

Marks

et al. 2000

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

140

119

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Sebaceous gland activity has four distinct components which are sebum production (a secretion rate function), storage (a volume function), surface output (a delivery rate function) and stratum corneum permeation (an influx rate function). The oily appearance of skin results from an excess of sebum excretion and spreading over the body surface and its interaction with the skin surface. A multi-pronged approach is often useful to assess skin greasiness with precision. The clinical evaluation of skin greasiness and its shiny appearance should be further complemented by quantifying the large pores, follicular plugs and comedones. The sebum amount present at the skin surface can be measured non-invasively using one of several methods based on solvent extraction, cigarette paper pads, photometric assessment, bentonite clay and lipid-sensitive tapes. Quantitative parameters include the sebum casual level, the sebum excretion rate, the sebum replacement time, the instant sebum delivery, the follicular excretion rate, the density in sebum-enriched reservoirs and the sustainable rate of sebum excretion. A series of environmental and biological features influence the data. Hence rigorous methodological designs are mandatory to support claims. As a rule, accuracy of the methods is adversely affected by skin temperature, degree of hydration and surface roughness. An additional confounding factor is the inherent difficulty of collecting the surface lipids without a contribution from the follicular reservoir. A better understanding of factors that alter the sebum amount at the skin surface may well assist in the development of sebosuppressive agents to help the reduction of the skin greasiness and improve acne.

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“…In vivo testing with penetration enhancers was performed safely by some researchers in contrast to others who reported severe cell damage in the epidermis and even skin necrosis [ 26 ]. Such hazards called for ex vivo predictive bioassays on human skin or SC [ 26 , 27 ].…”

Section: Penetration Enhancer Testingmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In addition, alterations in the SC other than pure lipid extraction are likely [ 27 ]. Large interindividual differences in CIM were found for any of the solvents or mixtures [ 16 ] suggesting the variability in the overall lipid extraction by these compounds [ 26 ]. The alterations induced in the human SC by solvents at the CXM bioassay were indeed reported to be more variable in extent that those induced by diluted surfactants as shown at the CSM bioassay on normal subjects [ 13 , 16 ].…”

Section: Corneoxenometry and Organic Solventsmentioning

confidence: 99%