Variability of wave parameters and H/H relationship under storm conditions offshore the Portuguese continental coast

Oliveira, Tiago C. A.; Neves, M. G.; Fidalgo, Raquel; Esteves, Rita

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.01.080

Cited by 27 publications

(14 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…It is difficult to know H max with precision because although the population of waves approximates a Rayleigh distribution, the upper tail does not conform (e.g., Krogstad, 1985), and the H max /H s ratio varies with the number of waves considered (Michel, 1999). Generally, however, when computed on intervals of 20 min to an hour (the common integration time for buoy data), H max is approximately 2 H s (Krogstad, 1985;Cattrell et al, 2018;Oliveira et al, 2018).…”

Section: Data Availability Statementmentioning

confidence: 99%

Systematic Review Shows That Work Done by Storm Waves Can Be Misinterpreted as Tsunami-Related Because Commonly Used Hydrodynamic Equations Are Flawed

et al. 2020

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Cox et al. Boulder Deposits and Storm Waves during storms and should therefore be re-evaluated. This is especially important for CBD that have been incorporated into long-term coastal risk assessments, which are compromised if the CBD are misinterpreted. CBD dynamics can be better determined from a combination of detailed field measurements, modeling, and experiments. A clearer understanding of emplacement mechanisms will result in more reliable hazard analysis.

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Section: Data Availability Statementmentioning

confidence: 99%

Systematic Review Shows That Work Done by Storm Waves Can Be Misinterpreted as Tsunami-Related Because Commonly Used Hydrodynamic Equations Are Flawed

et al. 2020

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Section: Assessment Of Wind and Wave Climate Indicatorsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A storm is defined here as a period of consecutive records with significant heights (H s ) exceeding a predefined threshold during a minimum period of six hours following Oliveira et al (2018). To distinguish between successive storms, a minimum storm inter-event separation of six hours was considered (Oliveira et al, 2018). The H s predefined threshold was selected based on Oliveira et al (2018), previous works evaluating the morphological impact at an adjacent beach (Plomaritis et al, 2018), and applying the storm wave height criteria proposed by Masselink et al (2014), which defines a storm as an event where the significant wave height H s exceeded the 0.95 quantile (i.e.…”

Section: Assessment Of Wind and Wave Climate Indicatorsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi‐decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)

Herrero

Kombiadou

2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Multiple ridges across prograding coasts may display variable geometries, commonly expressed through varying elevations. Changes in ridge elevation have been traditionally related to the occurrence of fluctuating progradation rates, which might, in turn, be driven by shifting environmental conditions.Here, we explore the geometry and growth mechanisms of multiple ridges, generated at Barreta Island (Ria Formosa, southern Portugal), as a consequence of the rapid progradation of the island over the last 70 years, following the artificial fixation of the downdrift Faro-Olhão inlet with jetties in 1955. The variability in the morphology of these features was analysed in combination with available wind and wave data, in order to better distinguish growth mechanisms and understand the main parameters determining the final geometry of the observed ridges.The results suggest that (1) most of the identified ridges fall in the beach ridge classification, as they have been mostly built by marine processes, and (2) the parameters derived from, or closely related to wave climate variability (e.g. progradation rates, storm occurrence) can jointly explain most of the observed morphological changes, while aeolian processes played a secondary role. Indeed, ridge geometry appears mainly controlled by progradation rates, with higher ridges associated with lower progradation rates. Progradation rate, in turn, is mostly related to longshore wave power, storminess, and the occurrence storm groups. Yet, the final configuration of ridges can also be affected by runup levels and onshore winds. Therefore, establishing the relation between ridge geometry and wave climate is not a straightforward task, because of the complex processes and interactions that control coastal morphodynamics.

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“…The offshore wave climate in Figueira da Foz is characterized by waves coming, predominantly, from the northwest quadrant with mean significant wave heights of 2-2.5 m and mean wave periods of 5-9 s in deep waters [23]. According to [24], the annual number of storms varied over the years, but January and February are the months with the highest average number (1.52 storms per month). This wave climatology results in a strong southward potential littoral drift estimated at about 1 × 10 6 m 3 ·year −1 [25][26][27].…”

Section: Study Areamentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The identification of storm events in the chosen periods was made following the criteria of [24], i.e., significant wave height higher than 4 m and duration higher than 12 h. For each storm event the power storm index (PSI) was estimated according to [48]:…”

Section: Wave Climate Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessment of Dredging Scenarios for a Tidal Inlet in a High-Energy Coast

Fernández-Fernández

Ferreira

Silva

et al. 2019

JMSE

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The high energetic wave climate of the North Atlantic Ocean causes important morphological changes at Figueira da Foz coastal system (W Portugal), which is comprised of sandy beaches and the Mondego estuary-inlet. The submerged sandbar at the inlet mouth is highly dynamic inducing short waves shoaling and breaking processes that can entail navigation problems towards the local harbor. Therefore, coastal dredging operations are performed to guarantee safe navigation. Nevertheless, these operations have a limited temporal effectiveness and require a high annual budget to be accomplished. The goal of this research is to seek long-life dredging alternatives using modeling tools (i.e., Delft3D model suite). Delft3D model is used to simulate the morphological evolution of five dredging scenarios during a three-month winter period under three wave climate scenarios. The bed level differences at the dredged area and at the inlet mouth for each scenario are analyzed in comparison with numerical solutions obtained in a reference scenario (i.e., no-dredging). Results highlight morphological changes at the dredged inlet and surrounding areas and their effectiveness in extending the operational lifetime of inlet dredged operations on dredging configuration and wave climate conditions. These findings are the basis for selecting the most suitable dredging scenario to this coastal region under current wave climate conditions.

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Variability of wave parameters and H/H relationship under storm conditions offshore the Portuguese continental coast

Cited by 27 publications

References 42 publications

Systematic Review Shows That Work Done by Storm Waves Can Be Misinterpreted as Tsunami-Related Because Commonly Used Hydrodynamic Equations Are Flawed

Systematic Review Shows That Work Done by Storm Waves Can Be Misinterpreted as Tsunami-Related Because Commonly Used Hydrodynamic Equations Are Flawed

Coastal ridge constructive processes at a multi‐decadal scale in Barreta Island (southern Portugal)

Assessment of Dredging Scenarios for a Tidal Inlet in a High-Energy Coast

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