Wave forcing and morphological changes of New Caledonia lagoon islets: Insights on their possible relations

Aucan, Jérôme; Vendé‐Leclerc, Myriam; Dumas, Pascal; Bricquir, Marianne

doi:10.1016/j.crte.2017.09.003

Cited by 14 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…Nevertheless, in the SW lagoon, where trade winds can blow over a sufficient fetch distance to generate wind waves, Jouon et al (2009) confirmed by observations that the sea state of this lagoon is clearly dominated by high-frequency wind waves. This was confirmed by Aucan et al (2017) which undertook a yearly period of observations around two islets in the SW lagoon and detected three main modes: high frequency wind waves (period 3-8s), low frequency generated by incoming swell within the passages (period 8-25s) and infragravity waves (period 25-400s). Maximum significant wave height observed in the lagoon in these two studies peaks around 1m and 1.5m.…”

Section: Lagoon Dynamicsmentioning

confidence: 62%

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: Field observations during 6 cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

Bruyère

Soulard²,

Lemonnier³

et al. 2022

Preprint

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Abstract. From 2014 to 2021, extensive monitoring of hydrodynamics was deployed within a variety of lagoons of New Caledonia during 6 tropical cyclone seasons. Globally, those coastal physical observations encompassed five different lagoons (four of which were never monitored before) and at least eight major atmospheric events ranging from tropical depression to category 4 cyclone. The main objectives were to characterize the processes at stake controlling hydrodynamics and hydrology of these lagoons (e.g ocean-lagoon exchanges, circulation, level dynamics, temperature and salinity variability) and capture their magnitude of change during extreme events. An additional objective was to build an adequate data set for assessment of high-resolution hydrodynamics models. Those field experiments took place within the PRESENCE project (PRESsures on coral Ecosystems of New CalEdonia) which aimed at building an efficient representation of the land-lagoon-ocean continuum of Grande Terre (main land) lagoons. Autonomous oceanographic instruments were moored at strategic locations to collect time-series of temperature, salinity, pressure, eulerian currents which characterize hydrodynamics at best. During field trips, whenever possible, lagrangian drifters releases and cross-shore hydrological profiles radials were additionally carried out. Surveys begun chronologically with SPHYNX campaign which lasted 15 months (December 2014 to February 2016) in the Hienghène-Touho lagoon followed with 5 months records in NOUMEA lagoon (December 2016 to April 2017). ELADE campaign in Poe lagoon encompassed 2 periods of measure (February to April 2018 and June to August 2018). In Koumac lagoon, CADHYAK survey was carried out between December 2019 until the end of May 2020 and finally, data have been recorded continuously for 9 months in Moindou lagoon (NEMO) (September 2020 to April 2021). In addition to characterize these lagoons, this data set stresses out some important features and processes, such as the presence of internal waves on reef slopes, wave-driven fluxes over reef barrier and exchanges through passes. It also contains the signatures of strong events materialized by surges, thermal drops inside lagoons or massive flash flood plumes dispersion. Raw data sets were processed, quality-controlled and validated, and processed files are publicly available in dedicated repositories on Seanoe in NetCDF format. Links (DOI) of individual data sets are provided herein.

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Section: Lagoon Dynamicsmentioning

confidence: 62%

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: Field observations during 6 cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

Bruyère

Soulard²,

Lemonnier³

et al. 2022

Preprint

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…However, for the RBR instrument, a specific package called "pyrsktools" was necessary to read the dataset, and this library is provided by the manufacturer. To process the RBR instrument data, we employed the script outlined in Aucan et al (2017). Last, for data conversion, we utilized the NetCDF4 package.…”

Section: Sampling Strategymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To deduce wave parameters (significant wave height, peak frequency, and mean wave period), data were filtered using the Fourier transform to acquire a pressure spectrum (within the range 3-25 s). Then, the methods referenced in Aucan et al (2017), also used in Aucan et al (2021) and Andréfouët et al (2023a), were applied using the linear wave theory with a homogenous cut-off frequency (set to 0.33) to filter the high-frequency spectrum. To calculate the water level, depth measurements were subtracted from the mean sea level (longterm depth-average of the temporal series).…”

Section: Rbrduet Tdmentioning

confidence: 99%

Lagoon hydrodynamics of pearl farming islands: the case of Gambier (French Polynesia)

Bruyère,

Le Gendre,

Liao

et al. 2024

Earth Syst. Sci. Data

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Abstract. Between 2019 and 2020, the Gambier lagoon was instrumented over a period of 9 months with a large array of autonomous oceanographic instruments measuring temperature, pressure, and current. Two deployments were conducted from June to October 2019 (Leg1) and from late October 2019 to late February 2020 (Leg2). A total of 16 instrumented locations were spread across the lagoon and on the forereef. Physical parameters were measured to characterize the wave climate, tide and surges, lagoonal circulation, and spatial and vertical temperature variabilities. Those observations were part of the ANR-funded MANA project (2017–2022) and its derivatives that were aimed at improving knowledge of processes influencing the spat collection of Pinctada margaritifera oysters that are used for black pearl farming and production. This dataset was a prerequisite for the development of a high-resolution biophysical model on the Gambier lagoon that is aimed at understanding the connectivity of oyster larvae (Bruyère et al., 2023a). The sampling strategy focused on the northern region of the Gambier lagoon and especially on the sub-lagoon of Rikitea, which is a prime spat collection site. The dataset was post processed, quality controlled, and is archived in a dedicated repository with a permanent DOI via the SEANOE marine data platform (https://doi.org/10.17882/94148, Andréfouët et al., 2023b).

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“…This is due to the SW lagoon being large enough to allow the trade winds to generate sufficient fetch to form wind-driven waves. Further observational studies by Aucan et al (2017) in the SW lagoon define three main modes of wave-based circulation, namely: high frequency wind waves (period: 3-8 s), low frequency generated by incoming swell within the passages (period: 8-25 s), and infragravity waves (period: 25-400 s). Maximum significant wave height within the SW lagoon is observed to be between 1.0 and 1.5 m (Jouon et al, 2009;Aucan et al, 2017).…”

Section: Lagoon Dynamicsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…For waves parameters, bursts were filtered using the Fourier transform to obtain a pressure spectrum (between 3 and 25 s period), then the linear wave theory is applied. This method uses a homogenous cut-off frequency of 0.33 to filter high frequencies spectrum (method used in Aucan et al, 2017). Furthermore, none of tail diagnostics have been applied on the higher frequency range but methods do exist (e.g., JON-SWAP spectrum tail or TMA spectrum tail) (Karimpour and Chen, 2017).…”

Section: Specific Processing Stepsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: field observations during six cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

Bruyère

Soulard

Lemonnier

et al. 2022

Earth Syst. Sci. Data

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Abstract. From 2014 to 2021 during the cyclone seasons, extensive monitoring of the hydrodynamics within a variety of lagoons of New Caledonia was conducted as a part of the PRESENCE project (PRESsures on coral Ecosystems of New CalEdonia). The PRESENCE project is aimed at building an efficient representation of the land–lagoon–ocean continuum at Grande Terre, New Caledonia's main island. Overall, coastal physical observations encompassed five different lagoons (four of which were never before monitored) and at least eight major atmospheric events ranging from tropical depressions to category 4 cyclones. The main objectives of this study were to characterize the processes controlling the hydrodynamics and hydrology of these lagoons (e.g., ocean–lagoon exchanges, circulation, level dynamics, temperature, and salinity variability), and to capture the magnitude of change during extreme events. An additional objective was to compile an adequate data set for future use in high-resolution hydrodynamic models. Autonomous oceanographic instruments were moored at strategic locations to collect time series of temperature, salinity, pressure, and Eulerian currents. Additionally, Lagrangian surface currents were observed through deploying drifter buoys, and cross-shore hydrological profile radials were carried out using CTDs (conductivity, temperature, depth). In total, five survey campaigns were conducted, beginning with the SPHYNX campaign which lasted 15 months (December 2014 to February 2016) in the Hienghène–Touho lagoon and ended with the 9 months NEMO campaign (September 2020 to April 2021) in Moindou lagoon. Between these were the 5 months NOUMEA campaign (December 2016 to April 2017) in Noumea lagoon, the 6 months ELADE campaign (February to August 2018) in the Poe lagoon, and the 5 months CADHYAK campaign (December 2019 to May 2020) in Koumac lagoon. In addition to characterizing these lagoons, the data set identifies important features and processes, such as the presence of internal waves on forereefs, wave-driven fluxes over reef barriers, and exchanges through passes. Signatures from strong events were also identified, including surges, thermal drops inside lagoons, and massive flash flood plume dispersion. Raw data sets were processed, controlled for quality, validated, and analyzed. Processed files are made publicly available in dedicated repositories on the SEANOE marine data platform in NetCDF format. Links (DOI) of individual data sets are provided herein.

show abstract

Wave forcing and morphological changes of New Caledonia lagoon islets: Insights on their possible relations

Cited by 14 publications

References 24 publications

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: Field observations during 6 cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: Field observations during 6 cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

Lagoon hydrodynamics of pearl farming islands: the case of Gambier (French Polynesia)

Hydrodynamic and hydrological processes within a variety of coral reef lagoons: field observations during six cyclonic seasons in New Caledonia

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