Wave grouping described by bounded long waves

Sand, Stig E.

doi:10.1016/0029-8018(82)90003-8

Cited by 31 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 8 publications

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“…Both approaches predict a phase-locked or "bound" long wave traveling at the group speed, rr out of phase with the wave envelope. The size of the bound long wave (BLW) in deep and intermediate water is reasonably well-predicted [Sand, 1982b;Shi, 1983]. However, in shallow water this theory predicts unreasonably large wave heights and therefore cannot be applied to the nearshore.…”

Section: [Sxx(t) R/(t) = (1) P La H _ %2mentioning

confidence: 99%

A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

List¹

1992

J. Geophys. Res.

113

110

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A finite difference model predicting group‐forced long waves in the nearshore is constructed with two interacting parts: an incident wave model providing time‐varying radiation stress gradients across the nearshore, and a long‐wave model which solves the equations of motion for the forcing imposed by the incident waves. Both shallow water group‐bound long waves and long waves generated by a time‐varying breakpoint are simulated. Model‐generated time series are used to calculate the cross correlation between wave groups and long waves through the surf zone. The cross‐correlation signal first observed by Tucker [1950] is well predicted. For the first time, this signal is decomposed into the contributions from the two mechanisms of leaky mode forcing. Results show that the cross‐correlation signal can be explained by bound long waves which are amplified, though strongly modified, through the surf zone before reflection from the shoreline. The breakpoint‐forced long waves are added to the bound long waves at a phase of π/2 and are a secondary contribution owing to their relatively small size.

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Section: [Sxx(t) R/(t) = (1) P La H _ %2mentioning

confidence: 99%

A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

List¹

1992

J. Geophys. Res.

113

110

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“…In particular, low-mode edge waves may become less important with increasing offshore distance because they are trapped close to shore. In 40-m water depth, a few hundred kilometers from shore in the North Sea, analysis of a few hours of high-energy sea-surface elevation data suggested that bound waves can dominate the infragravity band [Sand, 1982]. Bound waves also have been shown to contribute as much as 50% of the infragravity energy in pressure measurements made close to shore (within 1 km) in the Pacific Ocean in mean depths of about 10 m [Okihiro et al, 1992].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Observations of infragravity waves

Elgar¹,

Herbers²,

Okihiro³

et al. 1992

J. Geophys. Res.

106

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Infragravity‐wave (periods of one‐half to a few minutes) energy levels observed for about 1 year in 8‐m water depth in the Pacific and in 8‐ and 13‐m depths in the Atlantic are highly correlated with energy in the swell‐frequency band (7‐ to 20‐s periods), suggesting the infragravity waves were generated locally by the swell. The amplification of infragravity‐wave energy between 13‐ and 8‐m depth (separated by 1 km in the cross shore) is about 2, indicating that the observed infragravity motions are dominated by free waves, not by group‐forced bound waves, which in theory are amplified by an order of magnitude in energy between the two locations. However, bound waves are more important for the relatively few cases with very energetic swell, when the observed amplification between 13‐ and 8‐m depth of infragravity‐wave energy was sometimes 3 times greater than expected for free waves. Bispectra are consistent with increased coupling between infragravity waves and groups of swell and sea for high‐energy incident waves.

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“…Daugaard (1972) and Flick & Guza (1980) have presented other approximate second-order solutions for piston and #ap-type wave makers, respectively. Ottesen-Hansen et al (1980) and Sand (1982) discussed the elimination of spurious second-order wave components by imposing compensating second-order wave-maker motions. Sand & Mansard (1986) extended the approach and presented a technique necessary to produce the correct higher harmonics in an irregular sea state.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%

“…Ottesen-Hansen et al (1980) and Sand (1982) discussed the elimination of spurious second-order wave components by imposing compensating second-order wave-maker motions. Sand & Mansard (1986) extended the approach and presented a technique necessary to produce the correct higher harmonics in an irregular sea state. Hudspeth & Sulisz (1991) and Sulisz & Hudspeth (1993a, b) presented a complete second-order frequency-domain solution for the wave "elds produced by the monochromatic oscillations of both #ap-and piston-type wave makers by an eigenfunction expansion approach.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Second-Order Waves in a Three-Dimensional Wave Basin With Perfectly Reflecting Sidewalls

Williams

2000

Journal of Fluids and Structures

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Wave grouping described by bounded long waves

Cited by 31 publications

References 8 publications

A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

A model for the generation of two‐dimensional surf beat

Observations of infragravity waves

Second-Order Waves in a Three-Dimensional Wave Basin With Perfectly Reflecting Sidewalls

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