Wave Hydrodynamics over a Barred Beach

Sancho, Freddy; Mendes, Priscila; Carmo, José Simão Antunes do; Neves, M. G.; Tomasicchio, Giuseppe Roberto; Archetti, Renata; Damiani, Leonardo; Mossa, Michele; Rinaldi, Antonio Pio; Gironella, X.; Arcilla, A. S.

doi:10.1061/40604(273)118

Cited by 15 publications

(20 citation statements)

References 5 publications

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“…The mean water level shows a set‐down of approximately 2.5 cm until x = 57 m followed by a set up of approximately 2.5 cm. The rapid change in mean water level from set‐down to set up, and the lag between the breaking point (at x = 52 m) and the initiation of set up (at x = 57.3 m) were also observed in previous studies involving a barred profile [ Sancho et al ., ; Boers , ; Scott et al ., ; Govender et al ., ]. The lag occurs because the wave energy is not immediately dissipated when the wave tumbles over at the breakpoint x = 52 m; instead dissipation into heat takes place shoreward of the plunge point ( x > 55 m) in the propagating bore [ Svendsen , ; Battjes , ].…”

Section: Water Surface Elevationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Large‐scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Zanden

O’Donoghue

et al. 2017

JGR Oceans

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A large‐scale wave flume experiment has been carried out involving a T = 4 s regular wave with H = 0.85 m wave height plunging over a fixed barred beach profile. Velocity profiles were measured at 12 locations along the breaker bar using LDA and ADV. A strong undertow is generated reaching magnitudes of 0.8 m/s on the shoreward side of the breaker bar. A circulation pattern occurs between the breaking area and the inner surf zone. Time‐averaged turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is largest in the breaking area on the shoreward side of the bar where the plunging jet penetrates the water column. At this location, and on the bar crest, TKE generated at the water surface in the breaking process reaches the bottom boundary layer. In the breaking area, TKE does not reduce to zero within a wave cycle which leads to a high level of “residual” turbulence and therefore lower temporal variation in TKE compared to previous studies of breaking waves on plane beach slopes. It is argued that this residual turbulence results from the breaker bar‐trough geometry, which enables larger length scales and time scales of breaking‐generated vortices and which enhances turbulence production within the water column compared to plane beaches. Transport of TKE is dominated by the undertow‐related flux, whereas the wave‐related and turbulent fluxes are approximately an order of magnitude smaller. Turbulence production and dissipation are largest in the breaker zone and of similar magnitude, but in the shoaling zone and inner surf zone production is negligible and dissipation dominates.

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Section: Water Surface Elevationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Large‐scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Zanden

O’Donoghue

et al. 2017

JGR Oceans

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“…The simulated time series concern positions prior to, over and past a breaker-bar (Fig. 12) for two experimental conditions, one in a large-scale experiment (Sancho et al, 2001) and another in the field (DUCK94 campaign, Birkemeier and Thornton, 1994).…”

Section: Simulation Of Measured Velocity Time Seriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The first data set is reported in Sancho et al (2001), and concerns the velocity records measured in the large-scale wave flume of the Polytechnic University of Catalonia (UPC), aimed at studying the wave-induced turbulence and undertow over a fixed-bed, barred beach. Several instruments were deployed at several positions along the wave flume but, for the present analysis, we focus solely on the records provided by the electromagnetic current meters (ECM) in the 0.30 m layer above the bottom and at x = 24.5 m and x = 40.5 m. The data were gathered at 8 Hz sampling frequency.…”

Section: Simulation Of Measured Velocity Time Seriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Analytical approximate wave form for asymmetric waves

Abreu

Silva

Sancho

et al. 2010

Coastal Engineering

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“…The numerical model was applied to simulate tests performed by Sancho et al (2001) to study the hydrodynamics of wave propagation over a barred beach profile. The wave flume was 100 m long, 3 m wide and 5 m deep.…”

Section: Wave Breaking Over Barred Beachmentioning

confidence: 99%

Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model

Tonelli

Petti

2011

Journal of Hydraulic Research

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A Boussinesq-type model is applied herein to study wave propagation and wave breaking over complex bathymetries reproducing common coastal features, namely plane and barred beaches, submerged bars and rip channels. A hybrid finite volume-finite difference numerical scheme solves a set of, in the horizontal plane, two-dimensional extended Boussinesq equations where both nonlinear and dispersive effects are relevant and nonlinear shallow water equations where nonlinearity prevails over dispersion. The shock-capturing features of the finite volume method enable an intrinsic representation of spilling wave breaking and runup. Comparisons with experimental data indicate that the numerical model adequately simulates wave transformation over submerged bars, correctly capturing wave breaking onset and termination including the related energy dissipation. The development of breaking-induced currents and their interaction with wave propagation are also well represented within the applicability range of the governing equations.

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Wave Hydrodynamics over a Barred Beach

Cited by 15 publications

References 5 publications

Large‐scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Large‐scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Analytical approximate wave form for asymmetric waves

Simulation of wave breaking over complex bathymetries by a Boussinesq model

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