Wave-induced mean currents and setup over barred and steep sandy beaches

Martins, Kévin; Bertin, Xavier; Mengual, Baptiste; Pezerat, Marc; Lavaud, Laura; Guérin, Thomas; Zhang, Yinglong J.

doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2022.102110

Cited by 13 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 102 publications

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“…As a resolution of 2-4 km is not enough to resolve exhaustively everywhere coastal processes such as nearshore wave dissipation, we opted not to introduce the nearshore wave-circulation coupling described by (Bennis et al, 2011) and implemented in SCHISM by (Martins et al, 2022). Therefore, the water levels at the coast do not include the wave setup.…”

Section: Limitationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessment of global wave models on regular and unstructured grids using the Unresolved Obstacles Source Term

et al. 2020

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The Unresolved Obstacles Source Term (UOST) is a general methodology for parameterizing the dissipative effects of subscale islands, cliffs, and other unresolved features in ocean wave models. Since it separates the dissipation from the energy advection scheme, it can be applied to any numerical scheme or any type of mesh. UOST is now part of the official release of WAVEWATCH III, and the freely available package alphaBetaLab automates the estimation of the parameters needed for the obstructed cells. In this contribution, an assessment of global regular and unstructured (triangular) wave models employing UOST is presented. The results in regular meshes show an improvement in model skill, both in terms of spectrum and of integrated parameters, thanks to the UOST modulation of the dissipation with wave direction, and to considering the cell geometry. The improvement is clear in wide areas characterized by the presence of islands, like the whole central-western Pacific Basin. In unstructured meshes, the use of UOST removes the need of high resolution in proximity of all small features, leading to (a) a simplification in the development process of large scale and global meshes, and (b) a significant decrease of the computational demand of accurate large-scale models.

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Section: Limitationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessment of global wave models on regular and unstructured grids using the Unresolved Obstacles Source Term

et al. 2020

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“…These also include the influence of beach permeability (Longuet-Higgins, 1983;Nielsen, 1988Nielsen, , 1989 and tide (Holman and Sallenger, 1985;Raubenheimer et al, 2001;Stockdon et al, 2006) as second-order processes subject to discussion. More recently, works from Guérin et al (2018) and Martins et al (2022) investigated the role of the waveinduced nearshore circulation processes (bottom stress, vertical mixing, and vertical and horizontal advection), resulting in an improved wave setup prediction across the surf zone. The contribution of these parameters can be even larger on steeper beach slopes (Martins et al, 2022).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A predictive equation for wave setup using genetic programming

Dalinghaus

Coco

Higuera

2023

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We applied machine learning to improve the accuracy of present predictors of wave setup. Namely, we used an evolutionary-based genetic programming model and a previously published dataset, which includes various beach and wave conditions. Here, we present two new wave setup predictors: a simple predictor, which is a function of wave height, wavelength, and foreshore beach slope, and a fitter, but more complex predictor, which is also a function of sediment diameter. The results show that the new predictors outperform existing formulas. We conclude that machine learning models are capable of improving predictive capability (when compared to existing predictors) and also of providing a physically sound description of wave setup.

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“…This equation is a conservative estimate of the wave setup, which mostly depends on the local slope, breaking wave height, and wave period (Stockdon et al, 2006), and may be closer to 10 % of the breaking wave height. Larger values may only be observed at steep sandy beaches (e.g., Martins et al, 2022) or steep shore platforms (Sheremet et al, 2014;Lavaud et al, 2022).…”

Section: Step 1: Esl Change Assessmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

A systemic and comprehensive assessment of coastal hazard changes: method and application to France and its overseas territories

Igigabel,

Yates,

Vousdoukas

et al. 2024

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. In the context of climate change, height and frequency variations in extreme sea levels (ESLs) are studied using deterministic and probabilistic approaches. However, this type of approach does not highlight the dynamic effects (waves, currents) generated by metocean events (storms, cyclones, long swells, and tsunamis) beyond their effects on sea levels. In particular, ESL estimates are calculated by considering the main determining physical factors but cannot include all the effects of these factors. Ultimately, this can lead to confusion between ESL and hazard. This article proposes a systemic assessment method to analyze coastal hazard changes at regional scales, integrating parameters influencing sea levels, as well as factors describing the geomorphological context (length and shape of the coast, width of the continental shelf), metocean events, and the marine environment (e.g., coral reef state and sea ice extent). French mainland and overseas territories were selected to apply the method. The present study highlights the need to consider not only the sea level variability, but also the current and future characteristics of metocean events. The long, concave coasts bordered by a wide continental shelf appear particularly sensitive to variations in the intensity or trajectory of metocean events. Coral reef degradation in the tropics and the decrease in seasonal sea ice extent in the polar regions can also significantly change the nearshore hydrodynamics and impacts on the shoreline. These results help us to predict the types of hazard (shoreline erosion, rapid submersion, and/or permanent flooding) that will increase the most in different coastal zones.

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Wave-induced mean currents and setup over barred and steep sandy beaches

Cited by 13 publications

References 102 publications

Assessment of global wave models on regular and unstructured grids using the Unresolved Obstacles Source Term

Assessment of global wave models on regular and unstructured grids using the Unresolved Obstacles Source Term

A predictive equation for wave setup using genetic programming

A systemic and comprehensive assessment of coastal hazard changes: method and application to France and its overseas territories

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