Wave run-up prediction and observation in a micro-tidal beach

Abstract

Abstract. Extreme weather events bear a significant impact on coastal human activities and on the related economy. Forecasting and hindcasting the action of sea storms on piers, coastal structures and beaches is an important tool to mitigate their effects. To this end, with particular regard to low coasts and beaches, we have developed a computational model chain based partly on open-access models and partly on an ad-hoc-developed numerical calculator to evaluate beach wave run-up levels and flooding. The offshore wave simulations are carried out with a version of the WaveWatch III model, implemented by CCMMMA (Campania Centre for Marine and Atmospheric Monitoring and Modelling – University of Naples Parthenope), validated with remote-sensing data. The waves thus computed are in turn used as initial conditions for the run-up calculations, carried out with various empirical formulations; the results were finally validated by a set of specially conceived video-camera-based experiments on a micro-tidal beach located on the Ligurian Sea. Statistical parameters are provided on the agreement between the computed and observed values. It appears that, while the system is a useful tool to properly simulate beach flooding during a storm, empirical run-up formulas, when used in a coastal vulnerability context, have to be carefully chosen, applied and managed, particularly on gravel beaches.

Shoreline Rotation Analysis of Embayed Beaches by Means of In Situ and Remote Surveys

“…Hence, an integrated approach between different remote sensing tools investigated in this study to monitor shoreline rotation of embayed beaches is suggested that combines continuous and updated long-term remote sensing observations, together with in situ UAV, video-camera system and GPS measurement campaigns. Using the findings of this work, we are confident that we can implement our shoreline measures with modeling scenarios (i.e., nearshore wave model simulations or sediment transport) using GPGPU [55,56]-based high-performance cloud computing [57] as already done with sea pollutant transport and diffusion [58] and wave run-up forecast [8].…”

“…Coastal management should include an evidence-based understanding of natural processes such as erosion to deliver sustainable coastal development that ensures economic activities and preserves natural beach environments [2]. Shoreline survey can be generally performed, by remote sensing [3][4][5], UAV [6] and video monitoring [7,8], which was already introduced by Aarninkhof [9], Turner et al [10] and Holman and Stanley [11]; the final aim is the assessment of coastal vulnerability and risk which has been performed in different contexts [12][13][14][15]. Embayed beaches are more common than generally thought and represent about 50% of the world's coastline [16].…”

Statistical Deviations in Shoreline Detection Obtained with Direct and Remote Observations

“…Several types of coastal information can be provided from images. In Di Luccio et al [16], we analyzed wave run-up; in the near future, we will use data for rip-current detection, which we already analyzed with direct and remote observation tools [14].…”

“…Remote shoreline observations can be distinguished in remote sensing [11][12][13], UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicles) [14], and video monitoring [15,16], which were first introduced by Aarninkhof [17] and Turner et al [18]. These remote observations have been also extensively used to validate wind and wave numerical models [19][20][21][22][23] and to outline the environmental big picture in marine spatial planning applications [24][25][26].…”

Trends of significant wave height and sea level in the southern water of the Special Region of Yogyakarta

“…The increase frequency of extreme weather which causes extreme wave has a major impact on various human activities and infrastructure in the coastal zone * Corresponding author: martono@lapan.go.id [9,10]. The purpose of this study was to determine the trends of significant wave height and sea level in the southern waters of Yogyakarta.…”