Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs

Abstract

Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology.While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low-to-mild-sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tan < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave parameters are used to force a high-resolution wave model, and nearshore wave parameters and high-resolution topographic data are analyzed concurrently with runup time series in order to assess the dependence of the runup on hydrodynamic conditions and morphological parameters. The wave runup is shown to be strongly related to the square root of the offshore significant wave height times the offshore wavelength. The measurements also reveal the depth dependence of the runup, which is mainly attributed to the curvature of the foreshore profile. In comparison to empirical relation obtained for a mild-sloping beach, the present data show a significant reduction in normalized wave runup, that is attributed to enhanced bottom friction over the rocky bottom. Plain Language SummaryWhen waves reach the shores, they travel up and down the beach before being reflected seaward. The maximum vertical excursion of the waterline relative to the still water level, called the wave runup, is a key parameter for the design of coastal structures and the prediction of overtopping volumes during storm events. Most runup studies in natural environments have focused on smooth and mild-sloping sandy beaches, and empirical formula to predict the wave runup has been derived for these environments. Here we study the process of wave runup over steep rocky cliffs. Using pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone of Banneg Island-a small island located west of Brittany, France, exposed to very high waves-we measured runup events. Then we investigated the link between these runup data, offshore wave parameters, and cliff slopes. Our results reveal that the wave runup is linearly dependent to the square root of the offshore wave height times the offshore wavelength. In addition, a significant reduction of the runup is found compared to sandy environments, which is attributed to the frictional effect exerted by the rocky bottom on the flow.

Momentum Balance Across a Barrier Reef

“…This effect can be quantified by the wave‐height‐to‐depth ratio, which reaches maximal values of 0.8, 0.75, and 0.73 for A2, Ref, and A1, respectively. The reverse process has been observed for concave upward profile on steep rock cliffs (Dodet et al, ). For our site, this mechanism is expected to be sensitive to the incoming wave height, with a greater response for moderate wave conditions during which breaking occurs on the most curved portion of the forereef.…”

The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes

“…Guza and Thornton, 1981;Holman and Sallenger, 1985;Raubenheimer et al 2001;Apotsos et al 2007, Nicolae-Lerma et al 2017Guérin et al 2018). Wave setup can exceed 1 m under storm waves (Pedreros et al 2018;Guérin et al 2018;Dodet et al 2018) and can therefore have a relevant contribution in storm surges. As a rough guideline, wave setup along the shoreline of sandy beaches represent about 10 to 20 % of the significant wave height at the breaking point.…”

“…Indeed, wind generated waves accumulate and transport momentum across ocean basins and release it to the water column when they break in the shallow surf zone. The rapid decrease in momentum flux is compensated by a tilting of the water surface between the breakpoint and the waterline (Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964), which can rise the time-averaged sea level at the waterline by up to 1 m (Pedreros et al 2018;Guérin et al 2018;Dodet et al 2018). This effect, called the wave setup, is modulated by long waves with periods of the order of one minute that travel at the speed of the wave groups and rapidly grow (from centimeters to decimeters) in the surf zone.…”

Observing Sea States

“…Sea states are thus much less uniform than previously imagined, with important consequences for applications. Also, the importance of waves for coastal sea level (Ponte, 2019) , is naturally providing requirements for the accuracy and stability of wave heights and periods that are key variables for explaining extreme sea level (e.g., Stockdon et al, 2006;Poate et al, 2016;Dodet et al, 2018). In particular, consistency with the requirements on mean sea level, is calling for an adjustment on the requirements for sea state as previously defined by GCOS-200 (Belward, 2016).…”