Wear Attributes of Cashmere Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Blended with High and Low Crimp Superfine Merino Wool

Abstract

Cashmere has traditionally been either woolen spun for knitwear or used in low blend ratios (10-20 %) to provide special surface effects of softness in woven fabrics. As the woolen system best exploits the natural softness of cashmere [1] and mule spinning provides the softest yarns for knitwear, very little has been published on the properties of fabrics knitted from worsted-spun cashmere yarns. However, the market for fine worsted-spun cashmere garments could be as large as that for woolen spun cashmere according to a former Director of Dawson International Limited [2,3].Given the lack of technical information on the dehairing, worsted processing and quality of cashmere textiles, a series of experiments has been completed [4,5]. This work has shown that Australian cashmere compared with Chinese cashmere has greater length after carding and less crimp, suggesting that Australian cashmere should perform at a satisfactory level during top making and produce softer textiles [6,7]. 1 As the trends in textiles are for finer yarns and lighter weight fabrics that are suitable for trans-seasonal wear [8,9], data are required for worsted-spun knitted fabrics. There are some published data on how the properties of worsted-spun wool fabrics are affected by staple crimp frequency and the compression properties of the raw wool [10-13], but as the experiments were not replicated it is not Abstract In a replicated experiment, we investigated the impact of cashmere in blends with superfine wools on the wear attributes of single jersey knitted fabrics. We also investigated the relative performance of low crimp/low fiber curvature superfine wool when compared with cashmere and also when compared with traditional high crimp/high fiber curvature superfine wool in pure and blended knitted fabrics. Wool type, blend ratio and fabric structure affected fabric air permeability, resistance to pilling and change in appearance, relaxation shrinkage, hygral expansion, and dimensional stability during laundering. The responses to variation in fiber crimp were much greater than previously reported. The fabric properties of low crimp wool differed significantly from those made from high crimp wool, and low crimp wool fabric properties differed significantly from, but were closer to, the fabric properties of cashmere, compared with high curvature wool.

Effect of fibre, yarn and knitted fabric attributes associated with wool comfort properties

“…Fabrics were tested for 13 attributes as described in detail previously (McGregor, 2001;McGregor & Postle, 2008, 2009. Mass per unit area (g/m 2 ) was determined with sample area of 11.35 cm 2 .…”

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

“…Recently, the factors affecting the yarn attributes and knitted fabric quality, low-load compressional behavior and bending properties of yarns and fabrics made from raw superfine Merino wools of MFD 17.0 mm, but differing in fiber curvature and of blends of those wools with cashmere, were investigated in replicated experiments. [33][34][35][36] It was demonstrated that single jersey knitted fabrics made from high fiber curvature (high staple crimp) wool compared with those made from low fiber curvature (low staple crimp) superfine wool differ in many fabric properties, including compressibility, suppleness, air permeability, fabric thickness, mass per unit area, spirality, hygral expansion and dimensional stability during laundering. The properties of these superfine wool fabrics were also affected by blending with cashmere.…”

The science behind the wool industry. The importance and value of wool production from sheep

“…Research has expanded the understanding of the effects of wool crimp (fiber curvature) on processing, knitted fabric properties, and wearer comfort ( McGregor and Postle, 2009 ; McGregor et al, 2015a ). The importance and influence of wool handle have been recently reviewed by Preston et al (2016) .…”