Well‐aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi‐stressed conditions

Abstract

Background: Several studies evidenced significant increase of cortisol is the consequence of UV or emotional stress and leads to various deleterious effects in the skin. Aim:The well-aging, a new concept of lifestyle, procures an alternative to the antiaging strategy. We demonstrated that Tephrosia purpurea extract is able to stimulate well-being hormones while reducing cortisol release. Furthermore, we hypothesized that the extract could positively influence the global skin homeostasis. Method:We evaluated the impact of the extract on cortisol, β-endorphin, and dopamine, released by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). A gene expression study was realized on NHEKs and NHDFs. The protein over-expression of HMOX1 and NQO1 was evidenced at cellular and tissue level. Finally, we conducted a clinical study on 21 women living in a polluted environment in order to observe the impact of the active on global skin improvement. Results:The extract is able to reduce significantly the cortisol release while inducing the production of β-endorphin and dopamine. The gene expression study revealed that Tephrosia purpurea extract up-regulated the genes involved in antioxidant response and skin renewal. Moreover, the induction of HMOX and NQO1 expression was confirmed on NHDFs, NHEKs and in RHE. We clinically demonstrated that the extract improved significantly the skin by reducing dark circles, represented by an improvement of L*, a*, and ITA parameters. Conclusion:Tephrosia purpurea extract has beneficial effects on skin homeostasis through control of the well-being state and antioxidant defenses leading to an improvement of dark circles, a clinical features particularly impacted by emotional and environmental stress.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

“…Although, for years, the fascinating and complex interconnection between the skin and the brain has drawn strong interest among cosmetic companies for its potential, the topic is very intricate, and it is perceived as confusing and fragmented [5,26,56,57].…”

“…Vital parameters such as heart activity recorded with ECG [64], respiratory activity/frequency, salivary samples for monitoring cortisol release [65,66] (i.e., the decrease in cortisol secretion in saliva after the use of a soothing cream should be observed) [56,67], thermography related to cutaneous blood flow (i.e., when blushing, etc. ), the evolution of facial skin temperature under stress [64], and the electrical current perception threshold (CPT); the hyperexcitability of nerve endings (Aβ) increases with age, in which a threshold increase indicates a reduction of unpleasant excitability, (i.e., an improved state of wellness .…”

“…If the exposure to stress is prolonged, skin cells do not stop the production of cortisol, also known as the stress hormone; thus, its levels remain elevated, causing a cascade of damaging consequences [65,66,71,72]. In this regard, the breakdown of skin homeostasis takes place, inducing inflammation and a visibly tired look [56]. Only when a feedback mechanism is established does the body return to normal physiological conditions: the stress hormones and the related consequences are eliminated, restoring homeostasis [56,78].…”

“…In this regard, the breakdown of skin homeostasis takes place, inducing inflammation and a visibly tired look [56]. Only when a feedback mechanism is established does the body return to normal physiological conditions: the stress hormones and the related consequences are eliminated, restoring homeostasis [56,78]. This is the field in which neurocosmetics could act.…”

“…With particular regard to cortisol, its release is mediated by the brain through the hypothalamus-pituitary-adrenal gland axis. Since the origin of the skin and the brain is the same, skin cells are also able to induce cortisol production if stimulated by external stress factors [56,76,78,79].…”