Wind Wave Behavior in Fetch and Depth Limited Estuaries

Karimpour, Arash; Chen, Qin; Twilley, Robert R.

doi:10.1038/srep40654

Cited by 24 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 30 publications

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“…Correspondingly, the bottom stresses due to wave forcing are greater (up to 0.4 Pa) on the shallower flanks than in the channel (less than 0.1 Pa; Figure ). These regions of enhanced frictional dissipation correspond with wave‐induced bottom stresses that are more intensified locally than previously found in shallower and more spatially uniform estuaries (Karimpour et al, , ; Mariotti & Fagherazzi, ; Mariotti et al, ). For the northwest wind conditions, the simulated wave‐induced bottom stresses increase from around 0.1 Pa in the upwind region of the middle estuary to more than 0.3 Pa in the downwind region of the lower bay.…”

Section: Results Of Realistic Domain Simulationssupporting

confidence: 50%

“…Wave energy dissipation is strongly tied to spatial gradients in bathymetry, particularly in the lower bay, as waves that are at equilibrium in deeper water propagated into shallower regions and are subject to greater bottom friction. These regions of enhanced frictional dissipation correspond with wave‐induced bottom stresses that are more intensified locally than previously found in shallower and more spatially uniform estuaries (Karimpour et al, , ; Mariotti et al, ; Mariotti & Fagherazzi, ). Although the energy dissipation due to bottom friction is small overall compared with dissipation by whitecapping, over steeply sloping topography bottom friction dissipation greatly exceeds the equilibrium balance.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 50%

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Wave Generation, Dissipation, and Disequilibrium in an Embayment With Complex Bathymetry

et al. 2018

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Heterogeneous, sharply varying bathymetry is common in estuaries and embayments, and complex interactions between the bathymetry and wave processes fundamentally alter the distribution of wave energy. The mechanisms that control the generation and dissipation of wind waves in an embayment with heterogeneous, sharply varying bathymetry are evaluated with an observational and numerical study of the Delaware Estuary. Waves in the lower bay depend on both local wind forcing and remote wave forcing from offshore, but elsewhere in the estuary waves are controlled by the local winds and the response of the wavefield to bathymetric variability. Differences in the wavefield with wind direction highlight the impacts of heterogeneous bathymetry and limited fetch. Under the typical winter northwest wind conditions waves are fetch‐limited in the middle estuary and reach equilibrium with local water depth only in the lower bay. During southerly wind conditions typical of storms, wave energy is near equilibrium in the lower bay, and midestuary waves are attenuated by the combination of whitecapping and bottom friction, particularly over the steep, longitudinal shoals. Although the energy dissipation due to bottom friction is generally small relative to whitecapping, it becomes significant where the waves shoal abruptly due to steep bottom topography. In contrast, directional spreading keeps wave heights in the main channel significantly less than local equilibrium. The wave disequilibrium in the deep navigational channel explains why the marked increase in depth by dredging of the modern channel has had little impact on wave conditions.

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Section: Results Of Realistic Domain Simulationssupporting

confidence: 50%

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 50%

Wave Generation, Dissipation, and Disequilibrium in an Embayment With Complex Bathymetry

et al. 2018

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“…Uncertainty in HWH s can directly impact on coastal populations up‐estuary. HWH s in Runs 3–7 is consistently smaller than Run 8, as wave propagation may have lost momentum up‐estuary due to lack of local wind, or be depth limited (Karimpour et al, ). Further, one‐way and stand‐alone simulations do not account for the effect of waves on current, which may limit wave setup and propagation up‐estuary.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Quantification of the Uncertainty in Coastal Storm Hazard Predictions Due to Wave‐Current Interaction and Wind Forcing

Lyddon

Brown

Leonardi

et al. 2019

Geophysical Research Letters

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Coastal flood warning and design of coastal protection schemes rely on accurate estimations of water level and waves during hurricanes and violent storms. These estimations frequently use numerical models, which, for computational reasons, neglect the interaction between the hydrodynamic and wave fields. Here, we show that neglecting such interactions, or local effects of atmospheric forcing, causes large uncertainties, which could have financial and operational consequences because flood warnings are potentially missed or protection schemes underdesigned. Using the Severn Estuary, SW England, we show that exclusion of locally generated winds underestimates high water significant wave height by up to 90.1%, high water level by 1.5%, and hazard proxy (water level + 1/2 significant wave height) by 9.1%. The uncertainty in water level and waves is quantified using a system to model tide-surge-wave conditions, Delft3D-FLOW-WAVE in a series of eight model simulations for four historic storm events.Plain Language Summary Coastal zones worldwide are subject to combined effects of astronomical tides, meteorological storms surges, waves, and wind during storms and hurricanes, which can lead to flooding, property damage, and casualties. Coastal communities and critical infrastructure rely on accurate water level and wave forecasts to mitigate these combined hazards. Forecasts utilize hydrodynamic numerical models, which need to accurately represent these hazards and how they interact with, and feedback to, each other. This study uses a model, Delft3D-FLOW-WAVE, to calculate how tides and waves from four historic storm events combine to contribute to water level, wave height, and hazard proxy (water level + 1/2 wave height) in the Severn Estuary, southwest England. Additional simulations are run to show how local winds can further contribute to the hazard. Results show that including locally generating winds in simulations of water level, wave height, and hazard proxy is most important for accurate representation of physical processes that contribute to coastal hazards. Excluding locally generated winds from numerical model predictions could mean that flood alerts, warnings, and evacuation orders are missed, or coastal protection schemes are underdesigned, potentially leading to more flooding.

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“…Then, the successive point was examined. If a point did not satisfy these conditions, the time-cluster was closed and the location was considered to be subject to a new different wind condition afterwards [38]. The procedure described above is indicated in the following as a "dynamical running average" (DRA).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Climate at Shallow Waters along the Abu Dhabi Coast

Hamza

Lusito

Ligorio

et al. 2018

Water

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High-resolution, reliable global atmospheric and oceanic numerical models can represent a key factor in designing a coastal intervention. At the present, two main centers have the capabilities to produce them: the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the U.S.A. and the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). The NOAA and ECMWF wave models are developed, in particular, for different water regions: deep, intermediate, and shallow water regions using different types of spatial and temporal grids. Recently, in the Arabian Gulf (also named Persian Gulf), the Abu Dhabi Municipality (ADM) installed an ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) to observe the atmospheric and oceanographic conditions (water level, significant wave height, peak wave period, water temperature, and wind speed and direction) at 6 m water depth, in the vicinity of the shoreline of the Saadiyat beach. Courtesy of Abu Dhabi Municipality, this observations dataset is available; the recorded data span the period from June 2015 to January 2018 (included), with a time resolution of 10 min and 30 min for the atmospheric and oceanographic variables, respectively. At the ADCP deployment location (ADMins), the wave climate has been determined using wave propagation of the NOAA offshore wave dataset by means of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) numerical model, the NOAA and ECMWF wave datasets at the closest grid point in shallow water conditions, and the SPM ’84 hindcasting method with the NOAA wind dataset used as input. It is shown that the best agreement with the observed wave climate is obtained using the SPM ’84 hindcasting method for the shallow water conditions.

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Wind Wave Behavior in Fetch and Depth Limited Estuaries

Cited by 24 publications

References 30 publications

Wave Generation, Dissipation, and Disequilibrium in an Embayment With Complex Bathymetry

Wave Generation, Dissipation, and Disequilibrium in an Embayment With Complex Bathymetry

Quantification of the Uncertainty in Coastal Storm Hazard Predictions Due to Wave‐Current Interaction and Wind Forcing

Wave Climate at Shallow Waters along the Abu Dhabi Coast

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