‘You won’t See Anyone Promoting a Bronze’: Awards and Ambivalence Amongst Craft Gin Producers

Abstract

The recent surge in the popularity of 'craft' and 'artisanal' spirits made in small batches by independent producers raises a range of questions about the processes by which the economic and cultural value of consumer products and practices are assessed and acknowledged. Drawing on qualitative interviews with 20 craft gin distillery workers in the UK, this paper analyses the role played by trade and press awards in this process. Whilst the majority of interviewees had received awards for their products and most recognised the continued importance of such accolades both in terms of attracting new customers and bestowing status on their labour and its outputs, many also expressed notable ambivalence towards the processes by which judgements are passed and awards allocated. This typically involved expressing cynicism about award judging procedures and motivations, as well as proposing alternative measures of judgement involving different referents such as specific influential individuals, hypothetical 'average customers' and personal subjective tastes and preferences. The paper therefore seeks to add to understandings of the personal and cultural narratives associated with practices of award giving and consumer culture.

Gender and craft drinks

“…A number of factors influence the lack of women entering the craft drinks sector. Studies of craft brewers (Miller, 2019; Thurnell‐Read, 2014) and craft distillers (Ocejo, 2017; Thurnell‐Read, 2019b) have shown that many enter the trade having left previous white‐collar, and often well‐paid, jobs. Craft spirits producers who progress through initially amateurish explorations to increasingly professional distilling operations do so by drawing on their economic and cultural capital accrued in previous white‐collar professions (Ocejo, 2017).…”