OBJECTIVE: Particulate matter (PM), such as air pollutants and pollens, are known to cause skin ageing through skin inflammation. It is important to develop formulations which protect the skin from PM. We previously developed a conventional water-in-oil emulsion with a synthetic surfactant, distearyldimonium chloride, modified bentonite (C-W/O), which protects skin from allergens. In the present study, we developed a novel water-in-oil emulsion with a natural surfactant, lecithin, modified bentonite (N-W/O). METHODS: The microarray analysis was performed using total RNA extracted from a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) stimulated with urban aerosols or cedar pollen for 6 h in order to develop an epidermal inflammation model by PM for the evaluation of topical formulations. We then compared the efficacy of N-W/O and C-W/O to prevent epidermal degradation. Tissues and culture media were collected 24 h after the urban aerosol or cedar pollen stimulation for a histological assay, and the quantification of MMP1 and IL-8 secretion. RESULTS: The expression levels of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines, such as IL1A and CXCL8, and matrix metalloproteinases, including MMP1, MMP3 and MMP9, were significantly up-regulated by the PM stimulation. As a result of ranking based on the pathway enrichment analysis, oxidative stress-related pathways, such as MAPK-mediated signalling, HIF-1 signalling, IL-1 signalling and ROS-induced cellular signalling, were ranked high in the urban dust-and cedar pollen-treated groups. A thickened stratum corneum, thinned vital layer and cleaved E-cadherin were observed by haematoxylin and eosin staining and immunohistochemical staining of E-cadherin in the PM treated groups. The secretion of MMP1 and IL-8 into the media was significantly increased by the PM stimulation. N-W/O prevented the degradation of epidermal integrity and secretion of inflammatory proteins more effectively than C-W/O.

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