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The purpose of this study is to monitor in vivo the delivery of trans-retinol into human skin. Delivery to real systems, such as skin, can be extremely difficult to execute and is problematic to confirm and measure. So far, methods for studying the delivery of compounds through the skin are mostly ex vivo and so inherently influence the skin and may not translate directly to the in vivo situation. Raman spectroscopy is uniquely placed to be able to measure biological processes in vivo, and this paper shows that the trans-retinol penetration into the skin can successfully be measured in vivo using this technique. This study measured the volar forearm of volunteers treated with 0.3% trans-retinol in propylene glycol (PG)/ethanol and 0.3% trans-retinol in caprylic/capric acid triglyceride (MYRITOL318), an oil found in skin creams. Solutions were applied and then confocal Raman depth profiles were obtained of the stratum corneum (SC) and into the viable epidermis (VE) up to 10 hours after treatment. Remarkable differences between a penetrating and a nonpenetrating solution can clearly be observed. Treating with trans-retinol in PG/ethanol results in trans-retinol penetrating through the SC and into the VE. Its penetration was also observed to be highly correlated with the depth of penetration of the PG, which is well known as an efficient penetration enhancer. In contrast, while treating with trans-retinol in MYRITOL318, trans-retinol hardly penetrates at all. For the first time, the penetration of trans-retinol has been monitored directly after application of solutions, in vivo without skin excision. Here, the effect of two different solutions on the delivery of trans-retinol into the skin was measured very effectively in vivo by Raman spectroscopy.

Abstract:In the present study, the distribution of the carotenoids as a marker for the complete antioxidative potential in human skin was investigated before and after the topical application of carotenoids by in vivo Raman spectroscopy with an excitation wavelength of 785 nm. The carotenoid profile was assessed after a short term topical application in 4 healthy volunteers. In the untreated skin, the highest concentration of natural carotenoids was detected in different layers of the stratum corneum (SC) close to the skin surface. After topical application of carotenoids, an increase in the antioxidative potential in the skin could be observed. Topically applied carotenoids penetrate deep into the epidermis down to approximately 24 μm. This study supports the hypothesis that antioxidative substances are secreted via eccrine sweat glands and/or sebaceous glands to the skin surface. Subsequently they penetrate into the different layers of the SC.

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