A wave basin experiment has been performed in the MARINTEK laboratories, in one of the largest existing three-dimensional wave tanks in the world. The aim of the experiment is to investigate the effects of directional energy distribution on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves. Different degrees of directionality have been considered, starting from long-crested waves up to directional distributions with a spread of ±30• at the spectral peak. Particular attention is given to the tails of the distribution function of the surface elevation, wave heights and wave crests.Comparison with a simplified model based on second-order theory is reported. The results show that for long-crested, steep and narrow-banded waves, the second-order theory underestimates the probability of occurrence of large waves. As directional effects are included, the departure from second-order theory becomes less accentuated and the surface elevation is characterized by weak deviations from Gaussian statistics.

Nonlinear modulational instability of wavepackets is one of the mechanisms responsible for the formation of large-amplitude water waves. Here, mechanically generated waves in a three-dimensional basin and numerical simulations of nonlinear waves have been compared in order to assess the ability of numerical models to describe the evolution of weakly nonlinear waves and predict the probability of occurrence of extreme waves within a variety of random directional wave fields. Numerical simulations have been performed following two different approaches: numerical integration of a modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation and numerical integration of the potential Euler equations based on a higher-order spectral method. Whereas the first makes a narrow-banded approximation (both in frequency and direction), the latter is free from bandwidth constraints. Both models assume weakly nonlinear waves. On the whole, it has been found that the statistical properties of numerically simulated wave fields are in good quantitative agreement with laboratory observations. Moreover, this study shows that the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation can also provide consistent results outside its narrow-banded domain of validity.

Uncertainty in radiative forcing caused by aerosol–cloud interactions is about twice as large as for CO2 and remains the least well understood anthropogenic contribution to climate change. A major cause of uncertainty is the poorly quantified state of aerosols in the pristine preindustrial atmosphere, which defines the baseline against which anthropogenic effects are calculated. The Southern Ocean is one of the few remaining near-pristine aerosol environments on Earth, but there are very few measurements to help evaluate models. The Antarctic Circumnavigation Expedition: Study of Preindustrial-like Aerosols and their Climate Effects (ACE-SPACE) took place between December 2016 and March 2017 and covered the entire Southern Ocean region (Indian, Pacific, and Atlantic Oceans; length of ship track >33,000 km) including previously unexplored areas. In situ measurements covered aerosol characteristics [e.g., chemical composition, size distributions, and cloud condensation nuclei (CCN) number concentrations], trace gases, and meteorological variables. Remote sensing observations of cloud properties, the physical and microbial ocean state, and back trajectory analyses are used to interpret the in situ data. The contribution of sea spray to CCN in the westerly wind belt can be larger than 50%. The abundance of methanesulfonic acid indicates local and regional microbial influence on CCN abundance in Antarctic coastal waters and in the open ocean. We use the in situ data to evaluate simulated CCN concentrations from a global aerosol model. The extensive, available ACE-SPACE dataset (https://zenodo.org/communities/spi-ace?page=1&size=20) provides an unprecedented opportunity to evaluate models and to reduce the uncertainty in radiative forcing associated with the natural processes of aerosol emission, formation, transport, and processing occurring over the pristine Southern Ocean.

We discuss two independent, large scale experiments performed in two wave basins of different dimensions in which the statistics of the surface wave elevation are addressed. Both facilities are equipped with a wave maker capable of generating waves with prescribed frequency and directional properties. The experimental results show that the probability of the formation of large amplitude waves strongly depends on the directional properties of the waves. Sea states characterized by long-crested and steep waves are more likely to be populated by freak waves with respect to those characterized by a large directional spreading. DOI: 10.1103/PhysRevLett.102.114502 PACS numbers: 47.35.Bb, 47.55.NÀ An important task in the study of surface gravity waves is the determination of the probability density function of the surface wave elevation. The knowledge of the probability of the occurrence of large amplitude waves is essential for different engineering purposes such as the prediction of wave forces and structural responses or the design of offshore structures. A deep comprehension of the physical mechanisms of the generation of such waves is also a first step towards the development of an operational methodology for the probabilistic forecast of freak waves. It is well known that surface gravity waves obey nonlinear equations and, to date, a universal tool suitable for deriving the probability distribution function of a nonlinear system has not yet been developed. Fortunately, water waves are on average weakly nonlinear [1,2] and solutions can be generally written as power series, where the small parameter, in the case of deep water waves, is the wave steepness ". Strong departure from Gaussian statistics of the surface elevation can be observed if third order nonlinearities are considered. At such order it has been shown numerically [3] and theoretically [4] that, for long-crested waves, a generalization of the Benjamin-Feir instability [5] (or modulational instability [2]) for random spectra can take place [6]. This instability, that corresponds to a quasiresonant four-wave interaction in Fourier space, results in the formation of large amplitude waves (or rogue waves) [7] which affect the statistical properties of the surface elevation (see, for example, [8]). This is particularly true if the ratio between the wave steepness and the spectral bandwidth, known as the Benjamin-Feir Index (BFI), is large [4]. We mention that rogue waves have also been recently observed in optical systems [9] and in acoustic turbulence in He II [10] where giant waves are observed during an inverse cascade process.We emphasize that in many different fields of physics (plasmas [11,12], nonlinear optics [13,14], chargedparticle beam dynamics [15,16]) the modulational instability plays an important role; under suitable physical conditions a nonlinear Schrödinger equation can be derived and the modulational instability can be analyzed directly with this equation [2]. A major question which has to be addressed (and is the subject of the pre...

Antarctic sea ice shows a large degree of regional variability, which is partly driven by severe weather events. Here we bring a new perspective on synoptic sea ice changes by presenting the first in situ observations of an explosive extratropical cyclone crossing the winter Antarctic marginal ice zone (MIZ) in the South Atlantic. This is complemented by the analysis of subsequent cyclones and highlights the rapid variations that ice‐landing cyclones cause on sea ice: Midlatitude warm oceanic air is advected onto the ice, and storm waves generated close to the ice edge contribute to the maintenance of an unconsolidated surface through which waves propagate far into the ice. MIZ features may thus extend further poleward in the Southern Ocean than currently estimated. A concentration‐based MIZ definition is inadequate, since it fails to describe a sea ice configuration which is deeply rearranged by synoptic weather.