Dedico essa dissertação aos meus amados, pais Antonina (in memorian) e Alvino, pelo amor, afeto, estímulo e valorização da educação. Muita saudade... Ao meu amado, amante e companheiro marido Alexsander, pelo amor, incentivo e força em todos os momentos. Imensa gratidão! Aos meus queridos filhos Nicolas Alexsander e Nadine, pela compreensão e amor incondicional. AGRADECIMENTOS À Deus, Jesus Cristo e ao Divino Espírito Santo por iluminar meus caminhos. À minha família, por ser o esteio da minha vida e a Rosa Maria por todo seu zelo, carinho e dedicação à minha casa e família. À minha companheira leal de quatro patas, Piti, pelas alegrias, amor e carinho ilimitado. Aos meus mestres imenso respeito e admiração. À minha querida orientadora e pesquisadora exemplar, Profa. Dra. Elfriede Marianne Bacchi, pela paciência, confiança e ensinamentos científicos e de vida. Ao meu querido co-orientador e visionário pesquisador, Prof. Dr. André Rolim Baby, pela sugestão do objeto de estudo e pelos valiosos conhecimentos transmitidos e experiências compartilhadas. Serei eternamente grata a vocês! Ao querido Prof. Dr. Felipe Rebello Lourenço, pela paciência, ajuda com as análises microbiológicas e suporte estatístico. À querida Profa. Dra. Ingrit Elida Collantes Díaz pela competência química, ensinamentos e parceria. As queridas funcionárias da Central Analítica-IQ/USP Dra. Giovana C. de Freitas Lemeszenksi e Dra. Vânia A. B. Bueno Silva pela elucidação dos espectros de massas. Aos queridos professores doutores Nilsa Sumie Yamashita Wadt, José Luiz Aiello Ritto, Felipe Rebello Lourenço, Camila Areias de Oliveira e Ismael Ivan Rockenbach pelo aprendizado e conselhos durante exame de qualificação e a defesa da dissertação de mestrado. À querida Profa. Dra. Nádia Araci Bou Chacra pela colaboração no desenvolvimento das formulações.

The biomass of vinification results in up to 20% by-products (seeds, skins, pulp, and/or stems) that can be used in the production of diverse functional food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic ingredients, mainly due to their high polyphenol content. Conventional polyphenol extraction techniques are based on the use of solvents that are harmful to health and to the environment, creating a demand for sustainable complementary initiatives that mitigate part of the environmental effects and offer consumer safety. Current advances in these technologies allow for the recovery of valuable antioxidants from winemaking by-products free of hazardous solvents, biocompatible, and in compliance with international sustainable development guidelines. Nanotechnology has gained prominence in the development of green technologies to reduce or eliminate toxic agents and improve the stability and bioavailability of waste polyphenols. These efforts have led to the application of bioactive compounds from wine by-products in the development of more efficacious sunscreens, as a skin protection approach, and improvements in the antioxidant effectiveness of nanocarriers with potential use in the promotion of cutaneous health. We aimed to present different extraction and encapsulation technologies for biologically active compounds from wine by-products (Vitis vinifera L.). We also focused on a particular application of such compounds towards the development of value-added skin protection products aligned with a sustainable circular economy.

Sunscreens are currently considered cosmetic assets and their use has considerably increased since consumers have become greatly aware of the damages induced by ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, such as premature aging and cancer. However, concerns have arisen over the percutaneous absorption of UV filters. In order to ensure both efficacy and safety, sunscreens need to remain in the outermost layers of the stratum corneum, because their penetration into the dermis can cause systemic effects. Herein, a review was conducted of specialized literature published between 2000 to 2020, clustering studies focused on the skin penetration of UV filters. In this context, different in vitro and in vivo methodologies employed to assess the penetration of such compounds are highlighted, such as those based on tape stripping and diffusion cells. When combined with analytical methods, such as high-performance liquid chromatography, it is possible to trace a profile of the penetration of UV filters and elucidate factors that interfere with this phenomenon. Moreover, studies have been carried out on dissemination strategies that aim to encapsulate the molecules of UV filters, and/or change their physicochemical characteristics, in effort to increase the efficacy and safety of these formulations. Keywords: Franz cell; sunscreens; percutaneous penetration; tape stripping