In this study, the transdermal fate of vesicular nanosystems was investigated. Particularly, ethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9% w/w and transethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9 or 2.7% w/w plus polysorbate 80 0.3% w/w as an edge activator were prepared and characterized. The vesicle mean size, morphology and deformability were influenced by both phosphatidylcholine and polysorbate 80. Indeed, the mean diameters of ethosome were around 200 nm, while transethosome’s mean diameters were 146 or 350 nm in the case of phosphatidylcholine 0.9 or 2.7%, w/w, respectively. The highest deformability was achieved by transethosomes based on phosphatidylcholine 0.9%, w/w. The three types of vesicular nanosystems were applied on explanted human skin maintained in a bioreactor. Transmission electron microscopy demonstrated that all vesicles were able to enter the skin, keeping their structural integrity. Notably, the vesicle penetration capability was influenced by their physical-chemical features. Indeed, ethosomes reached keratinocytes and even the dermis, phosphatidylcholine 0.9% transethosomes were found in keratinocytes and phosphatidylcholine 2.7% transethosomes were found only in corneocytes of the outer layer. These findings open interesting perspectives for a differentiated application of these vesicles for transdermal drug delivery as a function of the cutaneous pathology to be addressed.

Skin is a major administration route for drugs, and all transdermal formulations must be tested for their capability to overcome the cutaneous barrier. Therefore, developing highly reliable skin models is crucial for preclinical studies. The current in vitro models are unable to replicate the living skin in all its complexity; thus, to date, excised human skin is considered the gold standard for in vitro permeation studies. However, skin explants have a limited life span. In an attempt to overcome this problem, we used an innovative bioreactor that allowed us to achieve good structural and functional preservation in vitro of explanted human skin for up to 72 h. This device was then used to set up an in vitro inflammatory model by applying two distinct agents mimicking either exogenous or endogenous stimuli: i.e., dithranol, inducing the contact dermatitis phenotype, and the substance P, mimicking neurogenic inflammation. Our in vitro system proved to reproduce inflammatory events observed in vivo, such as vasodilation, increased number of macrophages and mast cells, and increased cytokine secretion. This bioreactor-based system may therefore be suitably and reliably used to simulate in vitro human skin inflammation and may be foreseen as a promising tool to test the efficacy of drugs and cosmetics.