If using drugs not regulated by the World Anti-Doping Agency (WADA), individuals have to determine their own personal standards for enjoyment, challenge, acceptable risk, and ethics. No system of drug testing could ever, or should ever, be policed for recreational climbers. Sponsored climbers or those who climb for status need to carefully consider both the medical and ethical implications if using drugs to aid performance. In some countries (e.g., Switzerland and Germany), administrative systems for mountaineering or medication control dictate a specific stance, but for most recreational mountaineers, any rules would be unenforceable and have to be a personal decision, but should take into account the current best evidence for risk, benefit, and sporting ethics.

In recent years, the incidence of frostbite has increased among healthy young adults who practice winter sports (skiing, mountaineering, ice climbing and technical climbing/alpinism) at both the professional and amateur levels. Moreover, given that the population most frequently affected is healthy and active, frostbite supposes a substantial interruption of their normal activity and in most cases is associated with long-term sequelae. It particularly has a higher impact when the affected person’s daily activities require exposure to cold environments, as either sports practices or work activities in which low temperatures are a constant (ski patrols, mountain guides, avalanche forecasters, workers in the cold chain, etc.). Clinical experience with humans shows a limited reversibility of injuries via potential tissue regeneration, which can be fostered with optimal medical management. Data were collected from 92 frostbitten patients in order to evaluate factors that represent a risk of amputation after severe frostbite. Mountain range, years of expertise in winter mountaineering, time elapsed before rewarming and especially altitude were the most important factors for a poor prognosis.

This report aims to summarise the scientific knowledge around hydration, nutrition, and metabolism at high altitudes and to transfer it into the practical context of extreme altitude alpinism, which, as far as we know, has never been considered before in the literature. Maintaining energy balance during alpine expeditions is difficult for several reasons and requires a deep understanding of human physiology and the biological basis for altitude acclimation. However, in these harsh conditions it is difficult to reconcile our current scientific knowledge in sports nutrition or even for mountaineering to high-altitude alpinism: extreme hypoxia, cold, and the logistical difficulties intrinsic to these kinds of expeditions are not considered in the current literature. Requirements for the different stages of an expedition vary dramatically with increasing altitude, so recommendations must differentiate whether the alpinist is at base camp, at high-altitude camps, or attempting the summit. This paper highlights nutritional recommendations regarding prioritising carbohydrates as a source of energy and trying to maintain a protein balance with a practical contextualisation in the extreme altitude environment in the different stages of an alpine expedition. More research is needed regarding specific macro and micronutrient requirements as well as the adequacy of nutritional supplementations at high altitudes.

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