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Key points:1) We measure agreement among coastal scientists labeling the same sets of post-storm images.2) Coastal scientists agree more when rating landforms, less when labeling inferred processes.3) Iterating on questions, providing documentation, and using smaller image sizes all increase agreement.

Nearshore morphology is a key driver in wave breaking and the resulting nearshore circulation, recreational safety, and nutrient dispersion. Morphology persists within the nearshore in specific shapes that can be classified into equilibrium states. Equilibrium states convey qualitative information about bathymetry and relevant physical processes. While nearshore bathymetry is a challenge to collect, much information about the underlying bathymetry can be gained from remote sensing of the surfzone. This study presents a new method to automatically classify beach state from Argus daytimexposure imagery using a machine learning technique called convolutional neural networks (CNNs). The CNN processed imagery from two locations: Narrabeen, New South Wales, Australia and Duck, North Carolina, USA. Three different CNN models are examined, one trained at Narrabeen, one at Duck, and one trained at both locations. Each model was tested at the location where it was trained in a self-test, and the single-beach models were tested at the location where it was not trained in a transfer-test. For the self-tests, skill (as measured by the F-score) was comparable to expert agreement (CNN F-values at Duck = 0.80 and Narrabeen = 0.59). For the transfer-tests, the CNN model skill was reduced by 24–48%, suggesting the algorithm requires additional local data to improve transferability performance. Transferability tests showed that comparable F-scores (within 10%) to the self-trained cases can be achieved at both locations when at least 25% of the training data is from each site. This suggests that if applied to additional locations, a CNN model trained at one location may be skillful at new sites with limited new imagery data needed. Finally, a CNN visualization technique (Guided-Grad-CAM) confirmed that the CNN determined classifications using image regions (e.g., incised rip channels, terraces) that were consistent with beach state labelling rules.

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Three large wave events are simulated with WaveWatch III using different wind inputs and physics packages. The modeled output, including spectral shape and bulk parameter time series, are compared with National Data Buoy Center buoy observations offshore of Newport, Oregon. The atmospheric conditions that generate these large waves include a strong southerly wind along with a distant cyclone. The energetic contributions of these simultaneously occurring atmospheric features result in a wave field characterized by bimodal energy spectra for two events and unimodal energy spectra for the third event. The analysis of model output evaluates bulk parameter time series of significant wave height, mean period, and mean wave direction derived from partitioned energy spectra. A consistent underestimation in wave energy approaching from the southwestern direction is found for the output associated with all model configurations. This wave energy is generated by the southerly wind. An overestimation in swell energy approaching from the northwest is also found for all model configurations. The model configuration that most accurately reproduces the southerly wave energy results in the best performance for the overall bulk parameters.